Adventures in Apportioning Scales

My dear friend Mew was so very sweet and thinking of me when she was shopping one day. She found a book of Victorian patterns, would I like a copy? Sure! I love Victorian patterns and adding to my collection of Things I Will Sew One Day (tm). Thank you for thinking of me <3

The book came, and it wasn't precisely what I was expecting -- not that it is not dearly appreciated anyway! I really had no idea what to expect in the first place, and I was really excited to see what it had to offer. The book was 59 Authentic Turn-of-the-Century Patterns by Kristina Harris. It's a little out-of-era for me - most of my costuming focus is the bustle years of 1869-1889 (with the bustle-less years in-between as well; they're still aesthetically pleasing to me), but some of the earliest patterns in the book were still quite lovely to my eye. It's also useful for people looking for children's patterns; there's a very small selection of girls' patterns, one boys' pattern, and 2 or 3 mens' patterns as well. I was really excited to sit down and start planning the patterns out.

But I didn't quite understand them. The sewing directions are sparse (not really a concern, I should be able to figure that out), but the drafting instructions just made no sense. You are directed to draft blouses (aka waists) by bust measurement, and skirts by waist measurement, and to regulate the length by tape measure. OK, I got the tape measure part. What does the rest of it mean?

A trawl of Google revealed that you cannot make up the patterns by the numbers given. They are not in inches, and the enlarging instructions given are partial at best. What you really need is a set of apportioning scales.

What the heck are apportioning scales? Another Google trawl led me to a blog that linked to Festyve Attire's videos on how to use Edwardian apportioning scales as given in Edwardian Modiste by Frances Grimble. The notes at the bottom also indicated that the same scales given in this book can be used for Kristina Harris' books, as they are from the same fashion magazine. Sweet, I thought. I just need to find myself a copy of a Grimble book and I should be golden.

As I am a poor working stiff in retail, buying an appropriate book was not an immediate option. The library had only one book, an early 1900s book of patterns The Voice of Fashion (Grimble). I figured I could take it out, copy the rulers I (thought I) needed, see if anything caught my attention. I know myself well enough to know that I only need enough time and opportunity looking through any given era and I will most likely develop a level of passion for it.

There's several dresses that look utterly charming. I made up the test pattern with relative ease, though I haven't had a chance to test it fully. All of my fabric and sewing supplies are currently packed up and inaccessible, but the paper part seems to be OK so far. I will have to get on making a corset for the era to be totally sure. I was impressed enough with the way the patterns are drafted to pick up copies of Modiste, and 2 mid-bustle era books also by Grimble (Fashions of the Gilded Age One and Two; funnily enough, from the bustle-less mid-era years. LOL.) I can't wait for them to arrive and get started on expanding my wardrobe.

I will hopefully remember to take detailed photos of both the drafting and construction process to post here, as these books are wonderfully fascinating! I highly recommend them to anyone looking for these eras, with the caveat that they will take some skill to prepare to an easily sew-able state.

Adventures in: Sewing Challenges!

I've decided to participate in the Historical Sew Fortnightly, a themed challenge every two weeks for historical sewing :3 I probably won't be able to participate in every challenge, especially during November, but it's nice to have a tangible target and goals and peer pressure to keep one accountable. Plus I get some pretty things out of the bargain too! :D Now to decide what to make for the first challenge.

For Love of a Dress

When I was just a wee little lass, I spent a lot of time in libraries. There were two, conveniently located on my way to and from school. I can still clearly remember the way the light slanted in through the windows as I walked through the non-fiction section, looking for a book on costumes (I can't remember why I was looking for costume books), and I found...

Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Women's Clothes, 1680-1840, by Janet Arnold.

Specifically, the 1775 polonaise. Something about the striped pattern and the silhouette captured my attention. The neat diagrams certainly helped, too. I checked the book out, made some photocopies, coloured some of those copies, and set about with grand dreams.

It's been over 15 years since I first saw that dress. It's the one that started all my love of historical costumes. I'd been to a few SCA events before that, but the kind of outfits my mum had made for me did not satisfy my then-unknown love of structure. I was not yet a proficient seamstress. I'd made a few things for school, and a Star Trek costume, but I hated sewing. Still, I had visions of one day wearing a big floofy gown.

Fast forward some 4-6 years. I can also remember the way the light slanted through the windows of my apartment when I found Katherine's website, and specifically a green polonaise that she'd sewn entirely by hand. I was blown away by A: how pretty it was, and B: that she'd had the patience to do it by hand. I hated sewing by machine! It took so much time! The idea of doing an entire outfit, by hand, blew my mind.

Shortly after this, I got into gothic lolita fashion and started learning to love to sew. Not too long after that, I started going to local conventions, simply to have an excuse to wear a costume out in public.

Somewhere in there, I fell in love with Victorian fashions. I think I loved them for the same reason I loved that polonaise. They have a similar silhouette: the heavily structured bodice, full skirt, "business in the front, party in the back" skirts. Victorian is my prime area of costuming, as there are great, commercially-available patterns. Late-18th century seemed a little harder for me to get into, with not as many patterns available. Even though using Japanese pattern books for gothic lolita taught me a fair amount about drafting patterns, the incredibly-necessary fitting of Georgian gowns still seemed too far out of reach. I did make a Butterick pattern one year, but I didn't make any of the underpinnings, so I was always afraid of ripping it in some horrible way while wearing it.

Over the years I've expanded into other areas of historical dress. I fell in love with Elizabethan, then Tudor costumes. I got into cosplay. I started going on a local attraction even though it's not all THAT interesting and kind of expensive, simply because I have an excuse to wear a new Victorian gown every year.

I'm not really sure when I came back to the late 18th century. I read a few blogs of costumers that cover many eras, and I always find myself loving their 18th century outfits and wishing I a: had one to wear, and b: somewhere to wear it. I have the same feelings about Civil War era gowns, though at least for those, my Victorian group would be easier to fit into.

I decided quite recently that it didn't matter that I technically have no event I can wear a dress like this to. Eighteenth century was my first true love of historical fashion. Therefore, I will make a dress.

And it will be beautiful.

ETA: American Duchess has a great article on how she "found her era". Mine would probably be Victorian bustle as that was the first era I started sewing for. I've been known to tell people to just give me time and enough images of an era I previously haven't considered, and in time I will probably come to love it as much as Victorian ;)

A Regency Bonnet

Hello again after a long hiatus! I've been working on small projects here and there but nothing major, and now I finally have a project worth posting for you :)

A couple weeks ago, as we drove down to a local museum, we decided that we should go watch the Canada Day fireworks. I was pretty sure I would be working until early evening, but that doesn't matter much in Edmonton. The fireworks don't start until 11pm, because it's not dark enough until then to appreciate them.

We thought we'd head downtown a little early and have a picnic first. I cannot remember how picnic attire came up but it did. "What does one wear to a Canada Day picnic?" we asked ourselves. "A Regency dress, of course!" I declared.

 There was a brief pause. "BEST IDEA EVER!" we said.

I already had a dress made, complete except for a hem. My companions did not, but the dresses are so easy to put together it doesn't take long. I briefly pondered making a new one in the two days before the event, but decided that I made such a fuss over getting my current dress hemmed that I wouldn't give myself the extra stress.

 But now I have a new worry. Head coverings. Up until probably the 1960s, no one left the house without some kind of covering on your head. It simply Was Not Done. Not that anyone but us will care that our heads are bare, but we're already going with historical underpinnings and dresses, why not add that one extra layer and have our heads covered too?

I used this tutorial at Simplicity.com to modify a hat I purchased at Walmart into a bonnet. It has a straw brim and a baseball-style crown which I can wear perched on the back of my head and tied beneath my chin for a reasonably close historical look. The crown needed covering, and I had to add ties of course. I used some scrap satin and ribbon, and overall I'm quite pleased with the finished product :) It took around 2 hours to make, and had a total cost of approximately $15.

A Regency Chemise: Completed

Once I'd unpicked the sleeve from the neckhole, it was pretty simple to finish. The gussets are wonderful. I serged all my raw edges to prevent fraying but ran out of thread on one of the loopers and of course had no replacement cones (if you have a serger you know exactly what this feels like...). I made the bias tape neckline a bit on the narrow side by sewing it with a 3/8" seam, when it should have been 1/4", but I was too lazy to pick it out. It'll do. The nice thing about bias tape is that it doesn't fray :)

Aside from stitching the hem, it's done! I may not do that until much later in the future. It's serged, and it'll be under the dresses where no one will ever see them.

On to the pictures!

A Regency Chemise: Trial and Error

My mother and I were going to make Regency (pre-1811) gowns to wear to Worldcon in Reno this summer. We started planning this in 2009. She finished hers; I did not. I already have the gown made (from cotton; complete except for the hem) and the stays (from cotton and... mystery fabric), because I figured a chemise is a chemise and I would make one when I got around to it. Two years later, I'm bit more of a stickler for proper foundation garments, and it was time to make a Regency chemise.

A chemise, or shift, is essentially a T-tunic with varying neckline and sleeves, depending on the time period. It was pretty standard wear for everyone up into 20th century, I'd wager. You wore it against your skin, and it was almost always white. It was easier to remove and wash and bleach your chemise on laundry day rather than your whole wardrobe. Consider, before the advent of the washing machine, you had to scrub and beat your clothing to get the dirt out, and then either hang it on a line or lay it on the ground to dry. Not a fun prospect if you had numerous outfits.

I picked up a medium-weight linen-cotton blend to make the chemise. I love linen to itty bitty pieces; it's a wonderful fabric that is so easy to work with, even if the cut edges tend to fray. And the best part is, it's all natural, made from flax, and breathes wonderfully. Linen is a supremely comfortable fabric.

I'm using Sense & Sensibility's Regency undergarments pattern. This is extra challenging because I've lost the instructions. The pattern itself is very simple: a front, a back, a rectangle for the sleeves, a square cut on the bias for underarm gores, and the width of fabric needed to make self-bias binding for the neckline. I am unsure how deep the hem is, and if I bind the sleeve edges or turn them under.

I've worked with underarm gores before, but I got a little confused on this one. The gore was marked with notches on two sides, corresponding to notches on either end of the sleeve rectangle. The mid point of the sleeve matches the shoulder seam of the body pieces, and the bottom point of the gore will attach to the body to give the arms room to move. It should have been straightforward.

The sleeve. At left is the point of the gore that will attach to the body.

The front neck and top of the shoulder.

As you can probably tell, I chose to sew the sleeve and gore together first, rather than attach the sleeve to the body while both lay flat, and work the gore from there. I wound up attaching the sleeve to the neckline instead.

Oops...

I decided to call it a night and go to bed... 

Adventures in Cooking: Hamburger Soup

The weather has been a little chilly, even for the beginning of September. I wanted a little warmth in my meal. This soup is soup-er easy to prepare, and is very hearty! Serve with cheese toast.

Hamburger Soup
Recipe source.

Ingredients

• 1 pound ground beef
• 4 cups chicken broth
• 4 cups water
• 2 (1 ounce) packages dry onion soup mix
• 1 (15 ounce) can tomato sauce
• 2 stalks celery, chopped
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 (16 ounce) package frozen mixed vegetables
• 3/4 cup elbow macaroni

Directions

1. In a saute pan, brown ground beef, over medium heat.
2. In a large stock pot, combine broth, water, onion soup mix, tomato sauce, celery, onion, frozen vegetables and macaroni. Bring to a boil and then simmer until macaroni is done.
3. Add browned ground beef, mix and serve.

My Comments

I didn't use any other veggies besides the onion; moose-shaped whole wheat pasta; added some Italian seasoning, garlic powder, salt and pepper; and a splash of beer. I am definitely going to make this again. Reheats very well!