When I was in fashion classes in high school, my teacher told us all that we should go down one size from whatever the pattern envelope says, and this one is no exception. The envelope indicates that I should pick a size 16 (38" bust, 40" finished bust), but as per my teacher, I would need to cut a 14 (38" finished bust). Since the sacque will be fitted over stays, I don't need the 2" of ease that was built into the 16, so I cut out the 14 (38" finished bust measurement).
Mock up #1 was a straight-up sew of a size 14. Fit was generally very good - the waist was fine, the full bust I could pin closed nearly 2" smaller than the pattern, and I had too much fabric at the top of the chest.
Note the wave of fabric at the top of the shoulder.
For Mock up #2, I took a tuck in the shoulder strap. There are not photos of this one, but it pulled in the underarm and raised the back neck too far. It was not good. So I went back to the internet, and found tutorials for a small bust adjustment. The one I used appears to be gone, but this tutorial by Colette Patterns gives a good tutorial. The basics, for both full and small bust adjustments, is to cut up the pattern along the center of the bust point and towards the arm, and either spread or overlap the pattern to add or remove fabric.
So for mock up #3, I tried to do just that. This pattern was a little difficult because it doesn't have a traditional bust dart. I happened to have another Simplicity pattern that was the same size, which I used to mark the bust point. The best part about using a same-brand pattern was that they put most of their markings in the same place, which made it easy to line things up. And it worked! I had good fit over the shoulder and through the bust and waist. I was really pleased with the result!
Very happy with this fit!
Alright, enough talking. Here's how to make this magical adjustment.
Materials needed:
American Duchess Simplicity 8578 Sacque Gown pattern
Optional - Another Simplicity pattern with the same FINISHED measurements as the AD pattern
A piece of tracing paper or other see-through paper strong enough to cut apart
Marking devices (pens, pencils, etc)
Ruler
French curve (optional)
Tape
Scissors
After you have measured yourself with your underpinnings, select the size using the FINISHED measurements. Aim for 0-1" ease if you are wearing stays. I prefer a very snug fit through the bodice.
1. Trace off a clean copy of the front pattern piece. Transfer all markings. I use artist's tracing paper, purchased at Staples. If you can, mark the bust point using another, similar pattern with the same FINISHED measurements. For me, this was a size 14 sacque, and a size 12 basic bodice. I also marked the dart, but the fit of this pattern accounts for a dart as if it was already applied, so I used it to just center the line (step 4, below) that gets drawn through the bust point. If you don't have a similar size pattern, you can mark it somewhat arbitrarily, approximately 2" below and 3/4" in from the large dot that marks the stomacher attachment.
2. Draw a line from the underarm notch through the large dot marking the side waist. Mark the seam allowance near the single notch on the front curve of the armscye.
3. Cut the side back and front apart. Set the side back aside, we'll reattach it later.
4. Draw a straight line from the small waist dot up through the bust point with a ruler.
5. Draw a perpendicular line from the bust point to the side.
6. Use a ruler to draw a line from the bust point to the armscye. Most tutorials will give this as an arbitrary measurement like 1/3 of the armhole, but I found it's roughly where the armscye starts to straighten out from the crook of the arm.
7.Cut carefully up the front line and to the armscye, stopping just a hair before the seam line. Cut into the seam allowance towards the first cut, leaving a small hinge.
8. Cut from the side to the bust point, leaving a small hinge there too.
9. Move your bust point UP and IN, overlapping the intact part of the pattern by your desired amount. Allow the side cut and armscye cut to move naturally. My overlap was 1/2" to remove 1" total out of the bust. Tape in place to keep it from shifting.
10. Tape the side cut down so that it lays flat.
11. Lay the side back piece back against your pattern, matching the armscye edge and as much body edge as you can. You will have a little gap where the side cut overlaps, just tape in a piece of scrap paper behind it.
12. Because this adjustment shortens the waist, you can either raise the side back and front piece to match the shortened part, or lower the shortened part to match the other parts if you need more length below the bust. Make sure you adjust any length below the bust point.
13. Smooth out any other curves, such as in the armscye. Adjust the waist curve if necessary.
14. Cut another mock-up and see how you did!
You may want to shorten your stomacher pieces as well, I found mine a bit too high. Next time I will take some height off the top too.
Still a touch too tall over the shoulder, but overall fit was great!
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