tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37662345821296688572024-02-06T19:25:16.382-07:00Adventures in Bias TapeCorsets, Bustles, and Petticoats, Oh My!Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.comBlogger90125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-57315907012984846382020-01-19T10:07:00.000-07:002020-01-19T10:07:07.685-07:001770's Riding Habit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPtZbAAb0mgQyY9AHw47_euwW6LRCiFmZ8mngnt5yBhNmXvOUvS9-ACCbpFseXldhSNqD93Iu7xAFwm0T2eGwCgYX9qkNJguDcn7oopl0FlnFHelQNbmaTzgcuEbaSr2zigwfO0ViX8Tk/s1600/ridinghabitfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPtZbAAb0mgQyY9AHw47_euwW6LRCiFmZ8mngnt5yBhNmXvOUvS9-ACCbpFseXldhSNqD93Iu7xAFwm0T2eGwCgYX9qkNJguDcn7oopl0FlnFHelQNbmaTzgcuEbaSr2zigwfO0ViX8Tk/s320/ridinghabitfront.jpg" width="178" height="320" data-original-width="890" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
I'm not precisely sure when I decided that I needed a riding habit, but once the idea was there, it needed to happen. It's been on my to-do list since at least 2015. I had a copy of the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/1730-1870-Ladies-Riding-Habit-Pattern/dp/B004UVOZYW/ref=lp_8940215011_1_12/139-2792384-7081537?srs=8940215011&ie=UTF8&qid=1528066439&sr=8-12">Tailor's Guide Riding Habit</a> pattern, as well as Reconstructing History #830. I'd even gone so far as to start a waistcoat from RH830. It needed some work - the armhole was too narrow at the front of the arm, and I think I had to cut the neck down a bit. I made it out of a poly brocade and linen back, used the interfacing of my curtain-along gown tie-backs to stiffen the fronts, and got hung up on how it was lined? WAS it lined? If I didn't line it, did I just narrow hem the exposed edges? It's been sitting in the naughty pile for a looong time.<br />
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Before CoCo '17, after class descriptions were out but before I'd signed up for the riding habit class taught by JP Ryan, I decided to make a mock-up of the Tailor's Guide pattern. It was WAY too large - even without stays on, I had considerable overlap at the front, and I immediately gave up on it. I could not be bothered to try and wrap my head around it, and then signed up for the class. If I got in, great; if not, I would figure it out somehow. <br />
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Luckily, I <i>did</i> get into the limited class, which included personalized fitting instructions. The limited class size meant that she could spend time with each of us helping fit the patterns as we went, a very valuable experience! Myself and three others were grouped together as we all had similar and potentially time-consuming adjustments to make.<br />
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Since I am small-busted compared to my waist and hip measurements, my adjustment was to take a slice up the front pattern piece, move it out, and take the excess out as a dart through the chest. (In a perfect world, this adjustment would be halved front and back, but all my “extra” is “forward thrust”, so I only made it to the front.) For the vest, this just meant a shorter front overall, and the gap created between the two was smoothed out with a French curve. For the jacket, I repeated the adjustment, and as there is a dart across the bust, it just became smaller.<br />
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My in-class mock up went well, and I needed no special adjustments once it was sewn. When I got home, the project was placed on hold as I had no pressing event to make it for. <br />
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Finally, in spring 2018, when I knew I wanted to wear it at CoCo, it was time! I had enough of a navy wool blend in my stash for the habit, and I found a length of a grey wool blend that has been in my stash for over 10 years to make the waistcoat out of. I opted to machine sew everything together, as the directions were written for that, and also because I had to keep reminding myself - did I want it done “right” or did I want it DONE? DONE is something I struggle with a lot, so that became my mantra. DONE > “done right”.<br />
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<h2>Weskit/Waistcoat</h2><br />
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The waistcoat is lined in a medium-weight linen, and I faced the center front edges with a strip of maybe-silk-but-probably-poly fabric that came from the uneven edges of a petticoat I made earlier in the year. I waited to put the buttons on until I had the jacket done. Because of the machine sewing, and even with some hand finishing, it was done in 2 evenings. <br />
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<h2>Petticoat</h2><br />
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For the petticoat, I cut the panels as directed in the instructions, but in the future I would make it more like a regular petticoat, as it was nearly identical, but fussier. It has the sides sewn up and the halves pleated to a band, and then you must put the skirt on and pin the hem until it’s even. Since my hem is close to 120”, this was really tricky, not to mention I often sew alone! <br />
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<h2>Jacket</h2><br />
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The jacket was next, and was naturally a lot more complicated. The instructions are for bag lining, but I chose to do the backs and back linings in one, using a pretty gold-green poly lining fabric from my stash. The side backs were basted down and then the seams from the front were folded over and whipped down by hand. I put the pocket linings in backwards and didn’t realize until it was too late. <br />
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Because I was using polyester and a wool-poly blend, I was scared to use too much heat while pressing. I pressed as best as I could, and then ended up doing the running hem stitch by hand on every hem. If I make another one with this mix of fabrics, I will probably do these edges by hand. <br />
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For the multitude of buttonholes on the lapels, pocket flaps and cuffs, I did all the cuff ones (six) by hand… which took an hour each. For the lapels and pocket flaps, I had MANY MANY MORE, and DONE was better than “done right”. I got to experiment with my buttonholer, as each one was MUCH longer than the holer itself, so I didn’t even use it, and instead just used the function on the machine, tapping the bar where marked to make it run back the other way. <br />
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The sleeves are the best fitting sleeves I’ve ever made in my life, and were the easiest ones I’ve ever set. I wish I had thought to adjust the lapel before attaching it, as the shallower dart did change the length of the front and I ended up with some seriously thick seams at the neckline. I ordered buttons on Ebay, but unfortunately mis-read how many I needed, and the waistcoat has different buttons.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiypheJQjhP19PDEqKNnlLKg_D2jmSGjXvaki4Hno86dsm9TrsdWu3iSo3yyFC7hPbF9qmMfv9rSNllp21v3PwOSRrGVJiqKL0kcgf1cewxJVBgZIumQNqGFHzU3WpzEz068i9hRse3PV8/s1600/ridinghabitbuttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiypheJQjhP19PDEqKNnlLKg_D2jmSGjXvaki4Hno86dsm9TrsdWu3iSo3yyFC7hPbF9qmMfv9rSNllp21v3PwOSRrGVJiqKL0kcgf1cewxJVBgZIumQNqGFHzU3WpzEz068i9hRse3PV8/s320/ridinghabitbuttons.jpg" width="250" height="320" data-original-width="842" data-original-height="1078" /></a></div><br />
The last thing I needed to do was hook and eye to keep the front closed, and while I had purchased some in LA during CoCo, I couldn’t find them! I put on a few small ones, just to the lining as I didn’t want to spend time putting them in when they weren’t the ones i had specifically purchased for it, but hated how they behaved, so this is one of the first things I will fix when I get around to it. <br />
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<H2>Sexy Neck Action</h2><br />
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The final piece I needed was a cravat. I had some nice lightweight, lightly bodied black fabric, which I have since determined is silk. One side had a piece cut out of it from the fold, which was the perfect height for a cravat. I cut another strip the same height, and whipped the selvedges together. Then I hemmed it all by hand. It is so long, but such a delightful bit of sexy neck action, and I love it.<br />
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<h2>Riding Habit In Action</h2><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQlfk0NyvN6YwPUFELvifH5U1PVfs35eLwWYr-Gz8z1-FoRxzZ1B0WMhBMjIx2xdrWaoBC8x21rhxXezohqMSKcnygsGjqF7BN2ErzHNPhdekhA-rbVU-yHs_Dv9EIgC_ALLkbusoWlg/s1600/ridinghabit1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQlfk0NyvN6YwPUFELvifH5U1PVfs35eLwWYr-Gz8z1-FoRxzZ1B0WMhBMjIx2xdrWaoBC8x21rhxXezohqMSKcnygsGjqF7BN2ErzHNPhdekhA-rbVU-yHs_Dv9EIgC_ALLkbusoWlg/s320/ridinghabit1.jpg" width="169" height="320" data-original-width="845" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_z_bsTVjKjkebdvTt4YHdnL2wIF1RsLfpky2JTRerT9bSiKlYtOppnRJB3X3ygDkb5whTGLcoa4FY3TpmSSf9wtakRmJ1UBo7iJnFktwSAi168G64meoLaxkjjGQFHjrKRW10E70wlc8/s1600/ridinghabit2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_z_bsTVjKjkebdvTt4YHdnL2wIF1RsLfpky2JTRerT9bSiKlYtOppnRJB3X3ygDkb5whTGLcoa4FY3TpmSSf9wtakRmJ1UBo7iJnFktwSAi168G64meoLaxkjjGQFHjrKRW10E70wlc8/s320/ridinghabit2.jpg" width="143" height="320" data-original-width="713" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
I wore this at CoCo 2018 over the usual undergarments and a quilted petticoat. I had my pocket so perfectly placed that i could stick my hand straight in it through the slits. I found the jacket pockets too shallow for my modern necessities. <a href="http://blog.katielovely.com">Katie Lovely</a> wore her Regency riding habit, and we got some photos together of our matchingks :3<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPpV908OXOpKh07_-i3Cw9oZXnrhwxNrmNtqEZhXY6axC91NWdnWLDP95n5rVuxSMMpDGvqNWDoAAXlHl37wsAz-PCzro8BqtQs3RvDsn-miMbYTAgAvjoHOhefW7wuhvNuQ9s13x91y8/s1600/37887265_10105460800189665_6244964340525432832_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPpV908OXOpKh07_-i3Cw9oZXnrhwxNrmNtqEZhXY6axC91NWdnWLDP95n5rVuxSMMpDGvqNWDoAAXlHl37wsAz-PCzro8BqtQs3RvDsn-miMbYTAgAvjoHOhefW7wuhvNuQ9s13x91y8/s320/37887265_10105460800189665_6244964340525432832_o.jpg" width="320" height="320" data-original-width="1080" data-original-height="1080" /></a></div>Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-24441653196871760762020-01-12T09:28:00.001-07:002020-01-12T09:28:16.571-07:002019 Wrap UpHello again dear readers! I was a bit optimistic last January when I thought I would be more productive with both sewing and writing. At some point in late 2018 I gave myself permission to just... Take a break. That break ended up being a LOT longer than I thought, but it was good for me. Primarily, this is a hobby for me, and I wasn’t enjoying the self-inflicted pressure. Giving myself permission to take a break was really the hardest part. I spent a lot more time knitting, which gave my hands and brain the creativity they needed while not putting any pressure on myself to keep going. Since knitting takes so much longer to create a finished object, this was just the change of pace I needed. There is just no rushing a knitting project, your hands can only knit so fast. As the year progressed, I have more stability in my moods and life, and I’m starting to feel more up to taking on projects.<br />
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I did make a few things last year. Nothing spectacular. In fact, it was just a handful.<br />
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<center><b>Transitional Short Stays</b><br />
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<b>1790s White Roundgown</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlIsQ602lXokcjEzEWH9oD6CnJ2VpdhqRrcnd1m-ZnbGKx0p8E_ibOV22_YGTlrn1apxUVakzbf5_owULFzYamN9UafWmgZVVa5ofOr4StHiGtCaWQApL2rYF8vEr3Tac8uJU5abKzosc/s1600/62413674_1018033798390144_8936121115110014976_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlIsQ602lXokcjEzEWH9oD6CnJ2VpdhqRrcnd1m-ZnbGKx0p8E_ibOV22_YGTlrn1apxUVakzbf5_owULFzYamN9UafWmgZVVa5ofOr4StHiGtCaWQApL2rYF8vEr3Tac8uJU5abKzosc/s320/62413674_1018033798390144_8936121115110014976_n.jpg" width="214" height="320" data-original-width="601" data-original-height="900" /></a></div><P><i><a href="http://cheersphotos.com/">Cheers Photography</a> for <a href="https://www.regencyencounters.com/">Regency Encounters</a></i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBHHZjMaHKosuBwkX4AOm_rMOeP9Jv798T6m3RlXHKRzHOf9x7omQE3RTklWi3AQuucW_wyMT5yJ3n3wSR5ZrdO8o3KAmmjExRxTMrlJK6_-8GJuoyA61URqtLBZ6yCWLd-v3K0p5Y9s/s1600/67644046_10157217609870155_8976637306844741632_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBHHZjMaHKosuBwkX4AOm_rMOeP9Jv798T6m3RlXHKRzHOf9x7omQE3RTklWi3AQuucW_wyMT5yJ3n3wSR5ZrdO8o3KAmmjExRxTMrlJK6_-8GJuoyA61URqtLBZ6yCWLd-v3K0p5Y9s/s320/67644046_10157217609870155_8976637306844741632_o.jpg" width="320" height="320" data-original-width="1080" data-original-height="1080" /></a></div><br />
<b>Larkin & Smith English Gown</b><br />
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<b>White Ruffled Apron</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil56oWraQjBl6rjXzWp8l70LgAaAdEzKl80lgrOY79oBGCgK4FqVO_EChbHT0ei-N8e2HR3bG78-e73woUSOrgVALaWj1F5SYUML0vtOOiA4xnPVgeHximkYkyAW1TKWFTzi_UR6MOHaw/s1600/82264489_10157649614725155_7552497383523745792_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil56oWraQjBl6rjXzWp8l70LgAaAdEzKl80lgrOY79oBGCgK4FqVO_EChbHT0ei-N8e2HR3bG78-e73woUSOrgVALaWj1F5SYUML0vtOOiA4xnPVgeHximkYkyAW1TKWFTzi_UR6MOHaw/s320/82264489_10157649614725155_7552497383523745792_o.jpg" width="320" height="320" data-original-width="1080" data-original-height="1080" /></a></div><P><i>This is the only photo I apparently have of it right now.</i><br />
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<b>Black “Vigee Le Brun turban”</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQg2Jf-WufeD2LjVzqF2FTcj9M-pbxlBDy0Q6xk6SsMdejfITFTEdv82uHlHffD4fWhK0gC_DYRLhPE16m79W7kVwqUByPaA8belLGkuHPP8IB0Si2MgCzrLuekkY6RnJICL5RmX0rpk0/s1600/71643836_10157381550890155_292754278089490432_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQg2Jf-WufeD2LjVzqF2FTcj9M-pbxlBDy0Q6xk6SsMdejfITFTEdv82uHlHffD4fWhK0gC_DYRLhPE16m79W7kVwqUByPaA8belLGkuHPP8IB0Si2MgCzrLuekkY6RnJICL5RmX0rpk0/s320/71643836_10157381550890155_292754278089490432_n.jpg" width="320" height="320" data-original-width="663" data-original-height="663" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqU1FA02h1MDeoVUrv0AMaUXDUjrCj9Fn0cV2ZQNOPKmVhS2H28sqTtmmsXdxFDxAj9ArNm1alXNsdabNByQS2h5n0ss8ffRlYNlGqMIISBhA91CeRQjmStLeJpqYpX3dg1ak8SwDErpU/s1600/71957197_10157381550475155_851969413849546752_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqU1FA02h1MDeoVUrv0AMaUXDUjrCj9Fn0cV2ZQNOPKmVhS2H28sqTtmmsXdxFDxAj9ArNm1alXNsdabNByQS2h5n0ss8ffRlYNlGqMIISBhA91CeRQjmStLeJpqYpX3dg1ak8SwDErpU/s320/71957197_10157381550475155_851969413849546752_o.jpg" width="320" height="320" data-original-width="1080" data-original-height="1080" /></a></div><br />
<b>Regency “Moping” gown</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjye-XvqInv7rvK32jq8JXIiN3cd6ze_R-Yt9a72Kmy-JmPYnDE7xS4X_jrYslC3qY0H640vmHihu9lWL_wz7d3zSibl6yA28tTZZl8phMQ2Me1RdbM1qvct84koQYLkcu4PNwdYp0nG7I/s1600/72366429_1117231468470376_2267332730414956544_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjye-XvqInv7rvK32jq8JXIiN3cd6ze_R-Yt9a72Kmy-JmPYnDE7xS4X_jrYslC3qY0H640vmHihu9lWL_wz7d3zSibl6yA28tTZZl8phMQ2Me1RdbM1qvct84koQYLkcu4PNwdYp0nG7I/s320/72366429_1117231468470376_2267332730414956544_o.jpg" width="320" height="214" data-original-width="1280" data-original-height="854" /></a></div><P><i><a href="http://cheersphotos.com/">Cheers Photography</a> for <a href="https://www.regencyencounters.com/">Regency Encounters</a></i></center><br />
Yep, just 6 things! But the best part was - I was really happy to make them. I made the L&S gown 100% by hand, and it was such an enjoyable sew. The roundgown was mostly machine done, to replace my old white gown that was dyed pink in 2018, and it was both fast and a delight. The apron was made the day I wanted to wear it, partly to prove it could be done - the base was made in 2018, and I put the ruffle on before running out the door. <br />
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While I was sewing the “moping” gown, I was thinking about how much I was enjoying sewing again - exactly the thing I wanted to hear myself say. I finished the gown and dropped it off to its recipient, and then ran back home to make myself the turban to wear that night. I cheated A LOT on it and it’s largely machine-done with a serged rolled hem on the ties, but it was redonk cute and I loved wearing it. <br />
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I also started and worked on a couple projects, just nothing else finished. I cut the silk for my next sacque gown, started a petticoat to go with the English gown from last year (both of which are now done), and got the tapes sewn on and down for a faux fur muff.<br />
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Most excitingly, while at the October Pride & Prejudice Ball, I met some new people who all echoed the same sentiment - “I want to dress up more, but I feel so isolated”. There are lots of historical costumers in the province, and I know of nearly a dozen in Edmonton alone! So I started a Facebook group for Albertans to find each other - <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/1794185637392147/">Historical Costumers of Alberta</a>. It’s intended to be more of a bridge between living history (European history in this part of Canada doesn’t really exist before 1759, and even then not until the mid-19th century; both major history parks don’t cover the periods before 1840) and the pure fantasy of steampunk and cosplay. We even had our inaugural picnic, on a blustery October day, where the dress code was “something from your closet”. I rewore my 1840s dress for the first time since CoCo 2017! (I forgot my cape and muff though, and it was very chilly)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbqeXGgcwNLQHyWmiqtgzpG0kagLlkvVl4h3gAwQpwaQGKnVLJlWqdCvq1HrmQWPhe-z9iWdLdhUMZLfLOnc0AKgCvyKFVEReiXLtciZxjmryigfb7ARgY9rO8XNERHEWR_sijvfZY0zw/s1600/74231842_10157419998090155_4692428105057304576_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbqeXGgcwNLQHyWmiqtgzpG0kagLlkvVl4h3gAwQpwaQGKnVLJlWqdCvq1HrmQWPhe-z9iWdLdhUMZLfLOnc0AKgCvyKFVEReiXLtciZxjmryigfb7ARgY9rO8XNERHEWR_sijvfZY0zw/s320/74231842_10157419998090155_4692428105057304576_o.jpg" width="240" height="320" data-original-width="1200" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
For 2020, I started to make a list of all the things I wanted to sew now that I'm feeling ready to take it all on again, and quickly got overwhelmed with the sheer volume of plans. So instead, I want to focus more on HOW I sew. I spent the first bit of January already finishing up some UFOs, and I was taking more time to just enjoy working on them without a deadline, and so spending more time on the little details, such as basting up a hem before stitching it down. Who would ever take all that time, I thought. Y'all - I'm a convert. That was one the nicest hemming experiences I've ever had. Because the first bit was basted, the second turn-up didn't wibble at all, and there was no fighting with pins and being stabbed in weird places. I'm excited to try out new techniques this year and being more thoughtful about the HOW instead of the WHY.<br />
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That’s all for now! I hope to post again soon!<br />
Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-29751501305814422022020-01-05T21:39:00.001-07:002020-01-05T21:39:09.429-07:00Making a Small Bust Adjustment on Simplicity 8578 by American DuchessI have a whole <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.com/2018/09/the-victorian-wallpaper-cotton-sacque.html">other post</a> about how I came to sew a sacque, but this one is just going to address how I made a small bust adjustment to the Simplicity pattern. <br />
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When I was in fashion classes in high school, my teacher told us all that we should go down one size from whatever the pattern envelope says, and this one is no exception. The envelope indicates that I should pick a size 16 (38" bust, 40" finished bust), but as per my teacher, I would need to cut a 14 (38" finished bust). Since the sacque will be fitted over stays, I don't need the 2" of ease that was built into the 16, so I cut out the 14 (38" finished bust measurement).<br />
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Mock up #1 was a straight-up sew of a size 14. Fit was generally very good - the waist was fine, the full bust I could pin closed nearly 2" smaller than the pattern, and I had too much fabric at the top of the chest. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEireE1Q3dKs4jX2b9mqkWV-0UWyn-6p_kEdjmBKpljr41a_xCt_gdaESClMHXxvHqaYaNpI5eosDv3gRZZuCZ3CGdGygedFSL81oALBPPodSChDd7Qo0HPOul7jQlFLLXjkq8OCPF88c-Y/s1600/sacquemockup1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEireE1Q3dKs4jX2b9mqkWV-0UWyn-6p_kEdjmBKpljr41a_xCt_gdaESClMHXxvHqaYaNpI5eosDv3gRZZuCZ3CGdGygedFSL81oALBPPodSChDd7Qo0HPOul7jQlFLLXjkq8OCPF88c-Y/s320/sacquemockup1.jpg" width="301" height="320" data-original-width="1472" data-original-height="1564" /></a> <p><i>Note the wave of fabric at the top of the shoulder.</i></div><br />
For Mock up #2, I took a tuck in the shoulder strap. There are not photos of this one, but it pulled in the underarm and raised the back neck too far. It was not good. So I went back to the internet, and found tutorials for a small bust adjustment. The one I used appears to be gone, but <a href="https://www.sewalongs.com/myrtle/myrtle-small-bust-adjustment">this tutorial</a> by <a href="https://www.colettehq.com/">Colette Patterns</a> gives a good tutorial. The basics, for both full and small bust adjustments, is to cut up the pattern along the center of the bust point and towards the arm, and either spread or overlap the pattern to add or remove fabric. <br />
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So for mock up #3, I tried to do just that. This pattern was a little difficult because it doesn't have a traditional bust dart. I happened to have another Simplicity pattern that was the same size, which I used to mark the bust point. The best part about using a same-brand pattern was that they put most of their markings in the same place, which made it easy to line things up. And it worked! I had good fit over the shoulder and through the bust and waist. I was really pleased with the result!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAmgoTlOsdahfQOJ45k8LjsJ9mKZhCz7p4He72mideFRuBwhqS7duAXyPdAYACu7P363RdHZw8VRK_DBmDaEq0Iceqs6CbQPfs-M5BWXBxU5HbuMDEspswDVPpNw6yiJivJQnS25HTxT4/s1600/sacquemockupv3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAmgoTlOsdahfQOJ45k8LjsJ9mKZhCz7p4He72mideFRuBwhqS7duAXyPdAYACu7P363RdHZw8VRK_DBmDaEq0Iceqs6CbQPfs-M5BWXBxU5HbuMDEspswDVPpNw6yiJivJQnS25HTxT4/s320/sacquemockupv3.jpg" width="297" height="320" data-original-width="1100" data-original-height="1184" /></a> <p><i>Very happy with this fit!</i></div><br />
Alright, enough talking. Here's how to make this magical adjustment. <br />
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<b>Materials needed:</b> <br />
<a href="https://www.american-duchess.com/book/simplicity-pattern-8578-18th-century-robe-a-la-francaise">American Duchess Simplicity 8578 Sacque Gown pattern</a><br />
Optional - Another Simplicity pattern with the same FINISHED measurements as the AD pattern<br />
A piece of tracing paper or other see-through paper strong enough to cut apart<br />
Marking devices (pens, pencils, etc)<br />
Ruler<br />
French curve (optional)<br />
Tape<br />
Scissors<br />
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After you have measured yourself with your underpinnings, select the size using the FINISHED measurements. Aim for 0-1" ease if you are wearing stays. I prefer a very snug fit through the bodice.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvZKqGdtFC0aLQb87V0zhJ5fLDWcsOA3z7N8odGpNa-5ZQPMSRxHsHNONCFISpPao-QFTXJvnDSxHjvlKnlwpOgjLctUMsYK4oa2A1fecikPC_ijNTUH6XjEKYnTh1xaS3FyQQYDxsK4g/s1600/1231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvZKqGdtFC0aLQb87V0zhJ5fLDWcsOA3z7N8odGpNa-5ZQPMSRxHsHNONCFISpPao-QFTXJvnDSxHjvlKnlwpOgjLctUMsYK4oa2A1fecikPC_ijNTUH6XjEKYnTh1xaS3FyQQYDxsK4g/s320/1231.jpg" width="320" height="180" data-original-width="512" data-original-height="288" /></a></div><br />
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1. Trace off a clean copy of the front pattern piece. Transfer all markings. I use artist's tracing paper, purchased at Staples. If you can, mark the bust point using another, similar pattern with the same FINISHED measurements. For me, this was a size 14 sacque, and a size 12 basic bodice. I also marked the dart, but the fit of this pattern accounts for a dart as if it was already applied, so I used it to just center the line (step 4, below) that gets drawn through the bust point. If you don't have a similar size pattern, you can mark it somewhat arbitrarily, approximately 2" below and 3/4" in from the large dot that marks the stomacher attachment.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHG1jIfhG-jQq1D_g_G8E23Sgs7_8OpAcNtvDDQma36zYqCQ5Dy3NeIZru7Rxz2j4QRT2AtrlutXNOcPDSQ_F2hyfp9L26cRogt6b2aXsL8EDlG6Slri-XFn_lm4mTLABgJvoYcjFD0xE/s1600/1232.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHG1jIfhG-jQq1D_g_G8E23Sgs7_8OpAcNtvDDQma36zYqCQ5Dy3NeIZru7Rxz2j4QRT2AtrlutXNOcPDSQ_F2hyfp9L26cRogt6b2aXsL8EDlG6Slri-XFn_lm4mTLABgJvoYcjFD0xE/s320/1232.jpg" width="320" height="180" data-original-width="512" data-original-height="288" /></a></div><br />
2. Draw a line from the underarm notch through the large dot marking the side waist. Mark the seam allowance near the single notch on the front curve of the armscye.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdeqTX2ggZJBYGRVcifEe9o44CWlLSnNyYbc0CjOVlWCQVtdK1UXrYpZsjpCq0OuC2Vpvj455B2EKKmT8jIg0AinJDjboR5iI6ZjjOhzHz-hcHW3mnxz9rKZ1-jBtbf3NfTondWqqIhxE/s1600/1331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdeqTX2ggZJBYGRVcifEe9o44CWlLSnNyYbc0CjOVlWCQVtdK1UXrYpZsjpCq0OuC2Vpvj455B2EKKmT8jIg0AinJDjboR5iI6ZjjOhzHz-hcHW3mnxz9rKZ1-jBtbf3NfTondWqqIhxE/s320/1331.jpg" width="320" height="180" data-original-width="512" data-original-height="288" /></a></div><br />
3. Cut the side back and front apart. Set the side back aside, we'll reattach it later.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0WagMoPWiNrPprY5gO0kyrBIsR8Qm7FFR1wTEjUNV9LAn9wKtBkrru45ydkw6sOzi5NLR1DO3TlMkEa-p51tPVQagA6ODFvA9mNxrs4kjsrWLo64WupQQRcYshAG7WeohO-P3X9noPyg/s1600/1332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0WagMoPWiNrPprY5gO0kyrBIsR8Qm7FFR1wTEjUNV9LAn9wKtBkrru45ydkw6sOzi5NLR1DO3TlMkEa-p51tPVQagA6ODFvA9mNxrs4kjsrWLo64WupQQRcYshAG7WeohO-P3X9noPyg/s320/1332.jpg" width="320" height="180" data-original-width="512" data-original-height="288" /></a></div><br />
4. Draw a straight line from the small waist dot up through the bust point with a ruler.<br />
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5. Draw a perpendicular line from the bust point to the side.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjxhs19fN9yEBCbUbgTZEEbDIbQDzeZ92MEBM60X6-tq56QlzB9NEWBtM1g1i0ETCI4VjyUBfQcRVyssdmU_TDOTGsW4QARLbrRfRsWRQ_kgZgQkpcnumMxQNpUrdh5Ae3atcgv2d-IM/s1600/1333.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjxhs19fN9yEBCbUbgTZEEbDIbQDzeZ92MEBM60X6-tq56QlzB9NEWBtM1g1i0ETCI4VjyUBfQcRVyssdmU_TDOTGsW4QARLbrRfRsWRQ_kgZgQkpcnumMxQNpUrdh5Ae3atcgv2d-IM/s320/1333.jpg" width="320" height="180" data-original-width="512" data-original-height="288" /></a></div><br />
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6. Use a ruler to draw a line from the bust point to the armscye. Most tutorials will give this as an arbitrary measurement like 1/3 of the armhole, but I found it's roughly where the armscye starts to straighten out from the crook of the arm.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdVzgyRshyQZ0TPyexJoQk2T-7-5bXaIra_LnVtLD_Vcg8A8QmWljcJF6jI7NaihwOL0HL5DXR2Dv57lXeivm3QRxbd8cB9GlZ36Al6lcEbih68ImgME6fJ4xr4HaUJM8KhiMGLLuBSko/s1600/1334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdVzgyRshyQZ0TPyexJoQk2T-7-5bXaIra_LnVtLD_Vcg8A8QmWljcJF6jI7NaihwOL0HL5DXR2Dv57lXeivm3QRxbd8cB9GlZ36Al6lcEbih68ImgME6fJ4xr4HaUJM8KhiMGLLuBSko/s320/1334.jpg" width="320" height="180" data-original-width="512" data-original-height="288" /></a></div><br />
7.Cut carefully up the front line and to the armscye, stopping just a hair before the seam line. Cut into the seam allowance towards the first cut, leaving a small hinge.<br />
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8. Cut from the side to the bust point, leaving a small hinge there too.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCs5-8sKVovqeIznUInTV1hofqlTEqWqpsgmWd2SbvHMAma636JtKc3pKfZi1NqdNyWtO5QMYhAdesVszwKvjNr9Fpy3BSkbPAzDw9x-WJeVLq7_GFXQoIe0rEpYWEe72gmgMeBdX36gc/s1600/1335.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCs5-8sKVovqeIznUInTV1hofqlTEqWqpsgmWd2SbvHMAma636JtKc3pKfZi1NqdNyWtO5QMYhAdesVszwKvjNr9Fpy3BSkbPAzDw9x-WJeVLq7_GFXQoIe0rEpYWEe72gmgMeBdX36gc/s320/1335.jpg" width="320" height="180" data-original-width="512" data-original-height="288" /></a></div><br />
9. Move your bust point <b>UP</b> and <b>IN<b></b></b>, overlapping the intact part of the pattern by your desired amount. Allow the side cut and armscye cut to move naturally. My overlap was 1/2" to remove 1" total out of the bust. Tape in place to keep it from shifting.<br />
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10. Tape the side cut down so that it lays flat. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZzofUsLI5kyMXRyKjtUxn0hA7dGlFNYys8cWEX9z0dVmgSe_8W5MvuFHdYOrRShxJSciO0MIRkOwhZd9Wv7d5HSktne2OhykCOxpurZ5l_JDgsLMFMlXBjDO8X5140Vg1hQh5vQkSeCc/s1600/1336.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZzofUsLI5kyMXRyKjtUxn0hA7dGlFNYys8cWEX9z0dVmgSe_8W5MvuFHdYOrRShxJSciO0MIRkOwhZd9Wv7d5HSktne2OhykCOxpurZ5l_JDgsLMFMlXBjDO8X5140Vg1hQh5vQkSeCc/s320/1336.jpg" width="320" height="180" data-original-width="512" data-original-height="288" /></a></div><br />
11. Lay the side back piece back against your pattern, matching the armscye edge and as much body edge as you can. You will have a little gap where the side cut overlaps, just tape in a piece of scrap paper behind it. <br />
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12. Because this adjustment shortens the waist, you can either raise the side back and front piece to match the shortened part, or lower the shortened part to match the other parts if you need more length below the bust. Make sure you adjust any length below the bust point.<br />
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13. Smooth out any other curves, such as in the armscye. Adjust the waist curve if necessary.<br />
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14. Cut another mock-up and see how you did!<br />
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You may want to shorten your stomacher pieces as well, I found mine a bit too high. Next time I will take some height off the top too.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPusOHUqU5g9XkuNrK_KuPDY0Qhhs4T_SSefdSvuegX8z9aN7bQcJ9TBkgWe50XcfIrRdDqu36Hjb4peWHrqxS4O5uEy2xl1zV8i2xzOcwkkvliU9IlwtCxzPCwTXAsScq7df0F3Y2VTo/s1600/sacqueworn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPusOHUqU5g9XkuNrK_KuPDY0Qhhs4T_SSefdSvuegX8z9aN7bQcJ9TBkgWe50XcfIrRdDqu36Hjb4peWHrqxS4O5uEy2xl1zV8i2xzOcwkkvliU9IlwtCxzPCwTXAsScq7df0F3Y2VTo/s320/sacqueworn.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a><br />
<p><i>Still a touch too tall over the shoulder, but overall fit was great!</i></div>Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-1643921886945164602019-01-05T12:23:00.000-07:002019-01-05T12:23:38.526-07:002018 Wrap-Up2018 was a very interesting year, and not always in a good way. My mental health took a left turn at Albequerque and I had to take a step back from just about everything. But I'm happy to say that with the support of my doctor and Team Me, I'm feeling a lot better. One my goals for 2019 is to write more, so I'm going to make more effort to post here!<br />
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Upcoming I have a bunch of project posts and a tutorial on making a small bust adjustment, but for now here is my wrap-up of 2018.<br />
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<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.com/2018/01/hsm-18-january-mend-reshape-refashion.html">Remade/finished a riding habit shirt</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO2KIevO6YkKmPAhucx4oUzFrnZEAAPwOCSz2QUniW8ARskvZyftcjlHthECJTwgvXI5NlrQd4ERbuDOnB0mQpkrqZAP7XpV7JTt1B0fBcC0DdQKsiLhLbnTAJ4W9t0IJIUB1rsAQOmOs/s1600/IMG_5262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO2KIevO6YkKmPAhucx4oUzFrnZEAAPwOCSz2QUniW8ARskvZyftcjlHthECJTwgvXI5NlrQd4ERbuDOnB0mQpkrqZAP7XpV7JTt1B0fBcC0DdQKsiLhLbnTAJ4W9t0IJIUB1rsAQOmOs/s320/IMG_5262.JPG" width="240" height="320" data-original-width="1200" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
Finished <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.com/2016/08/hsm-16-2-tucks-and-pleating-market-hat.html">Market Bonnet</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM9q7DXrcEoJHMfj7uIqdKRJbg0qRMWnY0NmPaNQQ04YBtVSLCx2yn05KHElnfeC-ZPwN8ZsvggMIEX1zcvPAzREFICdRmeDgpqhQEHinDRPwFVBjGATyDKWdl8ljqlLKOEFa3KvewUCY/s1600/marketbonnetcomplete.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM9q7DXrcEoJHMfj7uIqdKRJbg0qRMWnY0NmPaNQQ04YBtVSLCx2yn05KHElnfeC-ZPwN8ZsvggMIEX1zcvPAzREFICdRmeDgpqhQEHinDRPwFVBjGATyDKWdl8ljqlLKOEFa3KvewUCY/s320/marketbonnetcomplete.jpg" width="276" height="320" data-original-width="733" data-original-height="849" /></a></div><br />
<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.com/2018/09/the-victorian-wallpaper-cotton-sacque.html">Victorian Wallpaper Cotton Sacque</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2F39qtuOnn4XLLAU5aA-WpOH0Kp5H1pyKhpVy3OvnT0DUuLIO65C1w-62ty6mWWIuuUE0GQZiaEyW1YtH1UMfoWsT8-luhgearsnpOIAhordCxJhVxq9WfsOppxnuZpKZKE_cqBPl7x8/s1600/sacque.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2F39qtuOnn4XLLAU5aA-WpOH0Kp5H1pyKhpVy3OvnT0DUuLIO65C1w-62ty6mWWIuuUE0GQZiaEyW1YtH1UMfoWsT8-luhgearsnpOIAhordCxJhVxq9WfsOppxnuZpKZKE_cqBPl7x8/s320/sacque.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
1780s Riding Habit and Cravat<br />
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1830s Yellow Gown and Apron<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkZv-VKDgdEGb2dn-Bo87wSEtWVWH1OIeQeY3MNClKNVBwU9WQOm08X3-cmqxYEv0BkXG4q1eB4dF8PQe3fgy-Av3MaDc3HXUHOJnOUOUyLLfiwbSBaze3GCtWeGr1j2GXujrrvOOh9sc/s1600/1830sfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkZv-VKDgdEGb2dn-Bo87wSEtWVWH1OIeQeY3MNClKNVBwU9WQOm08X3-cmqxYEv0BkXG4q1eB4dF8PQe3fgy-Av3MaDc3HXUHOJnOUOUyLLfiwbSBaze3GCtWeGr1j2GXujrrvOOh9sc/s320/1830sfront.jpg" width="157" height="320" data-original-width="787" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
1795 Redingote based on the <a href="http://www.lacma.org/patternproject">LACMA pattern</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRUF3yKNF-R0IITQElQnwzWvbdxT7IfgiEEgzxWTN-Lm2BXAG4FYjo6Z50gKmOms4GHRAPdN_JtByMd1UmP8N5oXBW2EFujII0amkTgRCrIXjnZ1WO8vDH__74CAcfWqiQcCH3OPwa9P0/s1600/redintgotefront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRUF3yKNF-R0IITQElQnwzWvbdxT7IfgiEEgzxWTN-Lm2BXAG4FYjo6Z50gKmOms4GHRAPdN_JtByMd1UmP8N5oXBW2EFujII0amkTgRCrIXjnZ1WO8vDH__74CAcfWqiQcCH3OPwa9P0/s320/redintgotefront.jpg" width="170" height="320" data-original-width="851" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
New sleeves, rump and petticoat for the <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.com/2017/12/ikea-ljusoga-italian-gown.html">IKEA LJUSOGA Italian Gown</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSKTWHs1xkRraRvDnrxIMvgkijaflIatg38GXGh2jUNtMWpWDSfQyz5vDgFiWny0JbR-jua5joVhyphenhyphend1AhmRIHMUI_pw5m3n_vFZfj9fozF9Or2Jq9OtSqGZyMYKzuLWszUg3f5Ql1eGI/s1600/Italianv2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSKTWHs1xkRraRvDnrxIMvgkijaflIatg38GXGh2jUNtMWpWDSfQyz5vDgFiWny0JbR-jua5joVhyphenhyphend1AhmRIHMUI_pw5m3n_vFZfj9fozF9Or2Jq9OtSqGZyMYKzuLWszUg3f5Ql1eGI/s320/Italianv2.jpg" width="129" height="320" data-original-width="644" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
The World's Fluffiest Cap (from the American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf5hm_5elB0RbdBEIeP2i2PVhnEWoDwkp0I6nmgJYYgYx47CA9vQH7Fl4Ai__rXhrxvDpgpmvTB39NNM5es3as7sEdFvwe-sxUwEdZg_PS3E_LRYNM_SwInn831r4Y88Z4h5uz-tfM2RQ/s1600/fluffycap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf5hm_5elB0RbdBEIeP2i2PVhnEWoDwkp0I6nmgJYYgYx47CA9vQH7Fl4Ai__rXhrxvDpgpmvTB39NNM5es3as7sEdFvwe-sxUwEdZg_PS3E_LRYNM_SwInn831r4Y88Z4h5uz-tfM2RQ/s320/fluffycap.jpg" width="255" height="320" data-original-width="592" data-original-height="744" /></a></div><br />
Printed English Gown (in progress) <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioOug3QuulQ3sNQv4yVm215vP7DWpwUk-6WnmHFn2YMNJfZ3ZvtaGTq00WuAfxhnWLF_QF_tCpATAD0H6ucsl-jYrrnGo_9qgv0wZTfzn5SoQesrChMj_91iRsT22OM5WHuRnbmvVfYdE/s1600/49721903_379782596106889_4610393267631030272_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioOug3QuulQ3sNQv4yVm215vP7DWpwUk-6WnmHFn2YMNJfZ3ZvtaGTq00WuAfxhnWLF_QF_tCpATAD0H6ucsl-jYrrnGo_9qgv0wZTfzn5SoQesrChMj_91iRsT22OM5WHuRnbmvVfYdE/s320/49721903_379782596106889_4610393267631030272_n.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="539" data-original-height="960" /></a></div><br />
I went to Costume College in July. It represented both a high and a low in my year. We had built in an extra day, and the group split up to do various events on that day. Nicole and I went to the California Science Museum to <a href="https://imgur.com/gallery/wTvVvWJ">visit <i>Endeavor</i></a> and <a href="https://imgur.com/gallery/ynZmgSu">King Tutankhamun's tomb goods exhibit</a>, both of which were incredible. On the Monday after we did the fabric district tour again and found some goodies. Our flight home was not delayed, and I had also booked the next day off to just stay home. Costume College was excellent, and I learned a lot of interesting things and met a lot of even more interesting people (including <a href="http://katielovely.com/">Katie Lovely</a>, <a href="https://fancymiscellany.wordpress.com/">Caitlin</a>, <a href="http://mysoulisfedwithneedleandthread.blogspot.com/">Michaela</a>, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/silkenstitches/">Anne</a> and <a href="https://www.gwendolyngrey.com/">Gwendolyn</a>). I did not sleep well all weekend, and a couple of external things threw my brain into a downward spiral that had me seeking my doctor out at the end of August. I can't decide if I want to write more about CoCo because it's so heavily coloured by my brain being a jerk. <br />
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For 2019 my goals include sewing more just because, getting back to my "roots" as a historical costumer with bustle-era Victorian things, and improving my life in small ways. It's going to be an adventure!Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-56269694187368310332018-09-03T10:24:00.000-06:002018-09-03T10:24:54.840-06:00The Victorian Wallpaper Cotton SacqueI hope you're ready for a long post about a long project, readers. Grab a beverage and settle in :D<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWLBPqfaJcuWdh7LxVsDzVP2oQFTBW8vkXNYXoI3ZG7pJb0Qexrwm93EaAIaFhyphenhyphenyPO1n00Gwt5fKK6kot07SfrsJoIhrakziyLIfMYXy6vsyTzsTBxWeWhw0AOrea042cdacjkTu3u1U/s1600/sacque.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWLBPqfaJcuWdh7LxVsDzVP2oQFTBW8vkXNYXoI3ZG7pJb0Qexrwm93EaAIaFhyphenhyphenyPO1n00Gwt5fKK6kot07SfrsJoIhrakziyLIfMYXy6vsyTzsTBxWeWhw0AOrea042cdacjkTu3u1U/s400/sacque.jpg" width="225" height="400" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
When my mum was destashing in early 2014, I grabbed this striped fabric with the specific intent to make a sacque (aka a robe a la francaise or sack). I washed it soon after, and then it sat. And sat and sat and sat and sat forever. I made <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.com/2014/02/hsf-14-3-pink-pocket-paniers.html">pocket hoops</a> a month later, and that's as far as the project ever got.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGDdky0r-yOYg7vNAZm-zFzkJVzmYBfnFKtCC_vRGOhKovd0HtfRXuMhW2yZcoC3BURq3xVxrAOAlUoj5fibRJCzNJ-c86BBtu-xUdrnF_L8KJj7OnxdtZZrDCH5olYTAavUJr58HxUJQ/s1600/cottonsacquefabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGDdky0r-yOYg7vNAZm-zFzkJVzmYBfnFKtCC_vRGOhKovd0HtfRXuMhW2yZcoC3BURq3xVxrAOAlUoj5fibRJCzNJ-c86BBtu-xUdrnF_L8KJj7OnxdtZZrDCH5olYTAavUJr58HxUJQ/s320/cottonsacquefabric.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
Within a month of Costume College 2017, I decided the time was now. I had bought a bunch of silk for a sacque in the fabric district, but I was too scared to cut into it without some experience under my figurative belt. So I felt that if I made the cotton one first, I would feel much more confident about starting the silk one! I first made a linen lining, using my modified RH 822 as the pattern. Then I cut a single panel of the cotton and started to drape it on my lining, referencing <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.com/2011/03/draping-sort-of-sacque-part-one.html">Katherine's sacque tutorials</a> as a guide. I was pretty happy with how it looked, and then got stalled on how to do the sides over the pocket hoops. The project got put aside, and sat.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixi28Npr0GCI1SBcH2UgmaWscqT0C6SOJcUvnzkw0bsd8k90PktJVSGLOJS_uRxhIIU14s3ucg0MTC-D9KyCpbPteYFvtVTB0NbDi6wqLxfFxBk6G2TH3aghEiXshLGoJItOGdzuBYJKI/s1600/sacquebackv1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixi28Npr0GCI1SBcH2UgmaWscqT0C6SOJcUvnzkw0bsd8k90PktJVSGLOJS_uRxhIIU14s3ucg0MTC-D9KyCpbPteYFvtVTB0NbDi6wqLxfFxBk6G2TH3aghEiXshLGoJItOGdzuBYJKI/s320/sacquebackv1.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
In the end I'm really glad it waited so long. <i><a href="https://www.american-duchess.com/index.php?_route_=book/american-duchess-guide">The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking</a></i> came out at the end of November, and I read it back to front numerous times. Especially the section about the sacque gown. The directions indicated a width of at least 80" across the back. It seemed like a lot! I was also thinking about how to arrange the pieces on my silk, and how to deal with stripes? I couldn't cut a gore off and flip it to the other side of the side skirt, with either fabric, they are both striped! How to deal with that? Then, the <a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/costumes/simplicity-pattern-8578--misses-18th-century-gown/">Simplicity pattern</a> was announced, and I was thrilled. <br />
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It took a couple months to arrange getting the pattern, but it did happen eventually. I finally, finally got set to really, really commit to make the gown this time. 80" of fabric in the back and all. Even if the fabric reminded me a bit too much of Victorian wallpaper to "pass". Indecision is my biggest nemesis, and I just needed to Get It Done.<br />
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I started by measuring my fabric. I had 8 yards of 42" fabric. The pattern envelope indicated I would need nearly 11 yards of 45" fabric, and that didn't include a petticoat, which I wanted. I carefully saved all of my scraps to see how much I would have left, and also because I may need them. Piecing is period, after all! Another reason to keep track of how much I had! I also wanted to make note of this especially because I felt it was important for people like me who can't get silk easily or inexpensively.<br />
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I sat down one late winter's day to make a mock-up. I always cut my Big-4 patterns one size smaller than the envelope says I need, and this one was no exception. I wasn't totally happy with it - too wide across the chest, too loose shoulder-to-bust (a normal occurrence, for me). I took the excess shoulder length out in a tuck from the strap, but I disliked that even more! It was now too tight under my arm and I couldn't put my arms forward much, plus the back neck now sat really high! Ugh! I took a day and a half to read about various adjustments one can make to a pattern - the one I see most is a full-bust adjustment, but what I really needed was a small-bust adjustment. I decided to give it a try, and the short version -- it worked. Back sitting where it was supposed to, full arm motion, including forward, only a tiny bit of excess over the chest. I'll put up a post explaining how I did it, link to follow!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXATDQvky8EN1_Hl3S1HymCfeCdqYhUt389QQ_kITEFhhj2r2NBihysixGYZkMSPInIzLJ2I0-VWEjhcKTNVxhsIo4leuLpUmZePax6lsZmKcMbd3wwufhOTMeSWs7QA3rxXgx-0FpU_E/s1600/sacquemockup1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXATDQvky8EN1_Hl3S1HymCfeCdqYhUt389QQ_kITEFhhj2r2NBihysixGYZkMSPInIzLJ2I0-VWEjhcKTNVxhsIo4leuLpUmZePax6lsZmKcMbd3wwufhOTMeSWs7QA3rxXgx-0FpU_E/s320/sacquemockup1.jpg" width="301" height="320" data-original-width="1472" data-original-height="1564" /></a><br />
<P><i>Mock up #1. Notice the waves of fabric over the shoulder...</i></div><br />
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<P><i>SO much better!</i></div><br />
From there it was full speed ahead! I put on some Netflix and got started. I used my initial single-width panel that had the armscyes cut out (one would be in the centre back but I would fill in whatever wasn't covered by the pleats with a scrap) and laid it out on top of the yardage. I chose to cut the back pieces as one large piece rather than 2 separate ones. The print was directional, so for the main pieces I was careful to make sure the print went in the same direction. I cut, pinned, sewed, fitted, etc, over the course of a few weeks, and I can't believe I ever thought a single 42" wide panel was enough for the back. Look at this beauty:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju4QKaWVh1Gy_2hudt2B9wkulnfsJ7Udo_UQMY6QT7TRfH0kH1yZOWnqrqAYMrrDyD6i0TeeEjcr1EPCi1We63BVrD7j8kq0OWfjCFDpJDx0RK4_u6P8UGQk4Vk-8HLneETo80mDAczU0/s1600/sacquebackv2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju4QKaWVh1Gy_2hudt2B9wkulnfsJ7Udo_UQMY6QT7TRfH0kH1yZOWnqrqAYMrrDyD6i0TeeEjcr1EPCi1We63BVrD7j8kq0OWfjCFDpJDx0RK4_u6P8UGQk4Vk-8HLneETo80mDAczU0/s320/sacquebackv2.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
I used a combo of machine and hand stitching. Major seams were done by machine where the stitches wouldn't show. In a few cases, I did machine stitch visibly, knowing or intending to cover it with trim in the future. Visible stitching was done by hand. I had cut my front skirts and bodice without checking placement of the print, and got it HORRIBLY wrong. I HAD to re-cut it:<br />
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<center><blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BgKma2WBCas/?utm_source=ig_embed" data-instgrm-version="9" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BgKma2WBCas/?utm_source=ig_embed" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Pattern lining up FAIL 😱😱😱 I'm recutting these... #sewing #sacque</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/?utm_source=ig_embed" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> Crystal</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-03-11T02:08:59+00:00">Mar 10, 2018 at 6:08pm PST</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script></center><br />
I did re-use the front bodice pieces to cut my stomacher. They only fit at an angle, but I quite like the chevron effect :)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4pLYp6WyZeu7XLO9JFtoxGVVARZrK41xPA8LlX6f8o1FnhBFuqaU0RQlbQJoh7ZZ8DjnSm7c-GtcAi0oXk0to7LL-kGLLVxrQg1bH0ylm5ibdef4gjstho4OlqHS_H2quPNhJ8Kj-4Ro/s1600/sacquefront_base.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4pLYp6WyZeu7XLO9JFtoxGVVARZrK41xPA8LlX6f8o1FnhBFuqaU0RQlbQJoh7ZZ8DjnSm7c-GtcAi0oXk0to7LL-kGLLVxrQg1bH0ylm5ibdef4gjstho4OlqHS_H2quPNhJ8Kj-4Ro/s320/sacquefront_base.jpg" width="200" height="320" data-original-width="998" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
As I got towards the end of my fabric, I had to plan. I did not have enough for a full self-fabric petticoat. I cut a single panel for the petticoat and two 12" strips to have a back hem, and then I was down to 27" of fabric left. I planned 6 3" strips for the front trim, but I waited to rip them, and good thing. My petticoat ended up being too long, and I ripped 4" off the front! I trimmed that down to 3" for one of the trimming strips. <br />
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The trimming took a long time, of course. I machine-hemmed both edges with my roll-hemmer foot, a device that is still a mystery to me. It was starting to get better by the end (I made a lot of hems over the summer with this foot), but I had done it this way because I KNEW someday it would get covered by trim. I had looked at a lot of sacque gowns in museums and such while I was planning, and the cotton ones, while trimmed, always had some kind of bling on their edges. But I also knew I couldn't wait to find the perfect trim, or else the strips would never get made, so I forged ahead. It took a LONG TIME (2 seasons of Call the Midwife, in fact) to get the strips gathered up. It took the first part of Moana to get them ironed, and then some more TV (I forget which, now) to get it all attached. I couldn't quite get it gathered up at my intended ratio, but I only have about 15" left over. And it looked GREAT!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiBZZf5h59sw6yLI5ta5Rr8uTOBwnENWTuaVY9T7ouSXeSSD22t1RxzbAqJaO04OzdEK7tjLvqob39Yn6WK8wbq42lRknAFRkdM8JbvoSiTiMRMTBSr0IJr0HbxXt8F8P5eduh72VVks/s1600/sacquetrimming1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihiBZZf5h59sw6yLI5ta5Rr8uTOBwnENWTuaVY9T7ouSXeSSD22t1RxzbAqJaO04OzdEK7tjLvqob39Yn6WK8wbq42lRknAFRkdM8JbvoSiTiMRMTBSr0IJr0HbxXt8F8P5eduh72VVks/s320/sacquetrimming1.jpg" width="148" height="320" data-original-width="738" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
Because I was using quilting cotton, I planned the back neck to be covered in trim. The fabric was stitched and the raw edges trimmed with pinking shears. The ruffle covers it.<br />
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Then it was on to the little bits! The sleeve fluffles had been hand-hammed, but I machined the gathering lines and attached by hand. I hate how visible the stitching is, but someday I will cover it. By the time I got around to that, my hands were giving out on me; I just couldn't manage fine handwork. It had to do. I machine-gathered lace and stitched it to a bias tape, then hand-stitched it to the neckline. For the linen fluffles, I used the trusty roll-hemmer (by this time, I had made another project with it, and the stitching on these is the best yet!) and then gathered some lace and stitched it on top (again by machine). It was gathered to a bias tape, and first I had put the fluffle in backwards. It looked weird! Once I got it on the correct sleeve, it was perfect. Except I had accidentally cut the biggest size fluffle, and had to attach it very far up the sleeve to keep it at a not-ridiculous-looking length.<br />
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<center><blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BlUVP3ojGun/?utm_source=ig_embed" data-instgrm-version="9" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BlUVP3ojGun/?utm_source=ig_embed" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Hmmm too much? I don't love that the back hem is on top of the arm. #sacque #sleeve #fluffles #sewing #18thcentury</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/?utm_source=ig_embed" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> Crystal</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-07-17T03:28:18+00:00">Jul 16, 2018 at 8:28pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><br />
<i>I realized after this photo that the fluffle was in the wrong way!</i></center><br />
The last bit I needed for Costume College was some bows. The night before we left, I cut three strips of golden yellow poly taffeta from my partner's stash with pinking shears. They would get done in the hotel, and they did. I put one on each elbow, and three down the stomacher, just pinned in place for now. I really enjoyed wearing it. Many people complimented my fabric, and I heard one exclamation of "pretty!!". Regrettably, I did not get any full-length shots of the outfit being worn. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZJz5DXj47RlGp-ocdMCeijt_kINRF8GG1MdHIkGPGFdsRDDVoFAZj6ro_KR7Uw65cSkDquyhk2_boQQ8OQADTBgdLjDfW60zSJ5pkMrcCEmqxs1TNpjGdxCWk0ENimduUvFxGqO9CiVw/s1600/sacqueworn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZJz5DXj47RlGp-ocdMCeijt_kINRF8GG1MdHIkGPGFdsRDDVoFAZj6ro_KR7Uw65cSkDquyhk2_boQQ8OQADTBgdLjDfW60zSJ5pkMrcCEmqxs1TNpjGdxCWk0ENimduUvFxGqO9CiVw/s320/sacqueworn.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
In the fashion district, I found some cute floral trim. I calculated how much I thought I would need (6 x 90" as an overestimation of the strip trim, which worked out to 15 yards, so I bought 20) and shortly after arriving home, started to attach it. It really adds something to the visual interest, but now I want to add more! I think the centre of the strip needs a little somethin'-somethin' too ;) Maybe in pink or purple to pull out the flowers?<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnFHmqhRDbbPo4WtdK1EAISiyVfN37eh9syWnxoRJuEDQY4aQije2-J-X1xxL-MoCMwAf8hPYzvTWNeQo5GG9IfwMGMyW9UtzZd0gTUgIXmMk-xsIVM-skJ1UIhPyBVgpOpkztZlFKRE/s1600/sacquebows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnFHmqhRDbbPo4WtdK1EAISiyVfN37eh9syWnxoRJuEDQY4aQije2-J-X1xxL-MoCMwAf8hPYzvTWNeQo5GG9IfwMGMyW9UtzZd0gTUgIXmMk-xsIVM-skJ1UIhPyBVgpOpkztZlFKRE/s320/sacquebows.jpg" width="242" height="320" data-original-width="1211" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhicVH1oW_vt9rKmBLtXgIQtxoRDF0JGtDs8oqzfbbMB1IIkgeXdB9sT68nNjCVKIIa9h03DtuqRSPYLF5_C08rfkNgRvN-FgtyJZveulaIGH9P_Hq0FCMGsrilVbOEpLTo8QxJi7zS1IU/s1600/sleevefluffle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhicVH1oW_vt9rKmBLtXgIQtxoRDF0JGtDs8oqzfbbMB1IIkgeXdB9sT68nNjCVKIIa9h03DtuqRSPYLF5_C08rfkNgRvN-FgtyJZveulaIGH9P_Hq0FCMGsrilVbOEpLTo8QxJi7zS1IU/s320/sleevefluffle.jpg" width="212" height="320" data-original-width="1059" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
And here is all of the fabric I have left. If you want lots of trim, a fully matching petticoat, etc, you will need more fabric than 8 yards (also if you are taller than me!). But if you plan carefully and keep it conservative, you can save a little on yardage. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQITZmhiiyQYRVoHwGwnbO-nzGi0ScouGJO7jJbF_MHGNpN43Ppl8Z2aCFeMm8jzLkUjghnfBlpu1ap9_kOORkHDKeEVS_9Mg4ZOK0ILt4SNZONG3vslxbDfNohK1fjlqO_iUerWG2aY4/s1600/scraps.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQITZmhiiyQYRVoHwGwnbO-nzGi0ScouGJO7jJbF_MHGNpN43Ppl8Z2aCFeMm8jzLkUjghnfBlpu1ap9_kOORkHDKeEVS_9Mg4ZOK0ILt4SNZONG3vslxbDfNohK1fjlqO_iUerWG2aY4/s320/scraps.jpg" width="228" height="320" data-original-width="1141" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div>Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-40054471639275986562018-07-08T12:11:00.000-06:002018-07-08T12:11:49.884-06:00Road to Costume College 2018Gosh, where did the first half of the year go? (I know where, winter was unusually long and dark and cold, and it's effect lasted longer than usual...) Now that the days on the calendar are quickly ticking down to the dates I will be in LA attending Costume College, its starting to really sink in that it's happening, and SOON!<br />
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I've been pushing to get some pieces made up for the event, even though it's SO VERY SOON now. If you <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/">follow me on Instagram</a>, I've been posting progress shots of my current projects. Here is what's on my to-do list, with bonus planned costume list for the weekend!<br />
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Thursday:<br />
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Jareth the Goblin King<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjul4dWt4mgFx3o8zOLb18_oOFpFmdhOovqA80A2CRgY0FsrPS_hFpqHXradExMOuYZ3YHae6iFuQGn2KrYDe9_b2-_C5_SxcLSQkSrra27TUrgC-TPgQlffJWvm9KiV3gofS-SOnscTy8/s1600/13119816_10153418315912587_1231550138717779259_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjul4dWt4mgFx3o8zOLb18_oOFpFmdhOovqA80A2CRgY0FsrPS_hFpqHXradExMOuYZ3YHae6iFuQGn2KrYDe9_b2-_C5_SxcLSQkSrra27TUrgC-TPgQlffJWvm9KiV3gofS-SOnscTy8/s320/13119816_10153418315912587_1231550138717779259_o.jpg" width="187" height="320" data-original-width="935" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
-need to reglue approximately 600 jewels back on.<br />
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Friday Day:<br />
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IKEA Ljusoga Italian gown<br />
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I made a split rump to go under this, and plan to redo the sleeves. If I have time, I may make another new petticoat. I really want the ruffly apron from the American Duchess Guide, but as I don't have fabric, I don't think I'll have time to create it.<br />
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Bonus: This is the only outfit that will have a hat. I finished-finished my market bonnet earlier this year and since it packs flat, it's the only hat I'm bringing along!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0sZsqE8I5Ysi1JZZlpQTC8IFiB-kimcT0rGpD0CtjDMAQWEV6UXPP2vmgVsP3vTRpLDV_F1DdizpCxam6uAZ0x32hDzT94RthwIDZKMzwWjQh14eB540cbVrV9QldYgE_wVMwUuCTASY/s1600/20170729_210602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0sZsqE8I5Ysi1JZZlpQTC8IFiB-kimcT0rGpD0CtjDMAQWEV6UXPP2vmgVsP3vTRpLDV_F1DdizpCxam6uAZ0x32hDzT94RthwIDZKMzwWjQh14eB540cbVrV9QldYgE_wVMwUuCTASY/s320/20170729_210602.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
-Redo sleeves<br />
-Cap<br />
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Friday Night Social:<br />
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Riding Habit<br />
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This is at least 75% done. I recently got the buttons I needed to put this on. I've misplaced the hooks & eyes I bought in LA last year to close it with so it might get temporary ones. I don't know what I'm going to do with my hair, either D:<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Biseqe7Dr3M/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:62.12962962962963% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Biseqe7Dr3M/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">A fun sewing day with @fangsiam turned into a mostly complete habit jacket 😍😍😍 thanks for having me over! #sewing #ridinghabit #18thcentury #jpryan #almostdone #badlighting #badbackground #whocares #itlooksgreat</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-05-12T22:58:10+00:00">May 12, 2018 at 3:58pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><br />
<br />
-Buttons! Buttons for days!<br />
-Waistcoat buttonholes + buttons<br />
-Attach lining to jacket<br />
-Hooks & eyes (possibly temp)<br />
<br />
Saturday Day:<br />
<br />
1830s cotton gown<br />
<br />
Purely as a companion to Lady Rebecca's 1830s fabulousness, I got this amazing pink and yellow print from my mom's destash in early 2014. I always intended it for an early Victorian gown. I have 6 yards, so I may need to get creative when it comes to the sleeves. I'm using the Workwoman's Guide (1838-1840) as a huge source of patterning, and several gowns from the Met as design choices.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BjqyPL5Ddb7/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BjqyPL5Ddb7/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Ive had this fabulous cptton print stashed away for a few years, intending to make an early Victorian day dress out of. Isnt it perfect? #cotton #print #sewing #victorian</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-06-06T03:42:07+00:00">Jun 5, 2018 at 8:42pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><br />
<br />
I'm using Laughing Moon's Regency stays pattern to make long stays. I'm using the theatrical version, as this is a pattern I mostly want "done" rather than "historically". Stays didn't change a lot for the first 30-odd years of the 19th century. You see the same shapes in the Workwoman's Guide with similarly styled boning patterns and advice for boning it as little as possible. For the dress I'm going to use Butterick's 1840 dress pattern as the bodice base, but this time I've modified the front with a small bust adjustment rather than taking the extra fabric out near the shoulders. I'll talk about that more in an upcoming post.<br />
<br />
I will also need a cap to cover my hair, and an apron. I got into a limited class on Saturday morning which will be hands-on, and I also just really love aprons!<br />
<br />
-Stays: boning channels<br />
-Stays: boning<br />
-Stays: Binding<br />
-Gown: everything. Sleeves are patterned and bodice pattern adjustments made, but that's it.<br />
-Gown: Sleeve support (maybe)<br />
-Cap<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Saturday Gala:<br />
<br />
LACMA Redingote<br />
<br />
I'm really excited about this one. I won't go into too many details since I have a post or two in the works already, but I started on this project last year shortly after CoCo, and it sat for months and months before I came back to it. It's my first time working with real silk, and I made a few choices I maybe wouldn't have made if I had waited just a bit longer (or maybe I would have; they certainly didn't occur to me at all until it was too late). I 'm hand sewing this partly because I have time to do so (I feel), partly because I enjoy the process, partly because I like the look, partly because I just plain wanna.<br />
<br />
One of the main features I loved about the extant garment is the shoulder capes, but they will be the last constructed as they are not integral to the garment in the way that sleeves are.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bkvl2bmjaZq/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bkvl2bmjaZq/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank">A post shared by totchipanda (@totchipanda)</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-07-02T21:01:29+00:00">Jul 2, 2018 at 2:01pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><br />
<br />
-Main sewing (lapels, collar, sleeves, cuffs)<br />
-Buttons<br />
-Hemming<br />
-BIG FLUFFY CAP<br />
-capes<br />
<br />
Sunday:<br />
<br />
Victorian Wallpaper Sacque<br />
<br />
I started this last fall too. The fabric also came from my mom's destash, and had always been intended for a sacque. I had initially started out with the same lining pieces as for my Italian and curtain-along gowns, with hand-sewn eyelets, and I was using Katherine's sacque tutorials as a guide. For whatever reason, it also got put aside for months.<br />
<br />
The Lady Detalle is hosting a "Dress of WRONG" on Sunday, perfectly accurate gowns with imperfectly accurate fabric. Mine will be less obvious than hers, but this fabric has always felt a little too "Victorian Wallpaper" to be an appropriate sacque. But I also really love it still, and when I got a copy of American Duchess' Simplicity pattern early this year, it was just a thing that needed to be Done.<br />
<br />
This also features a small bust adjustment, so stay tuned for that.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BjeFqWKjc15/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:62.5% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BjeFqWKjc15/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">New state of the #sacque 😁 i had to pick out one side cuz it was too far away from the stomacher but that was quick. Just a foot left and then i can move on to sleeve fluffles! #cotton #18thcentury #sewing</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-06-01T05:21:44+00:00">May 31, 2018 at 10:21pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script><br />
<br />
-Sleeve fluffles (inner and outer)<br />
-Cap<br />
-Bows for days!Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-73451426410516572272018-01-21T14:19:00.000-07:002018-01-25T10:17:32.590-07:00HSM '18: January: Mend, Reshape, Refashion: Riding Habit Shirt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFCA2p8vbRFRrzkJL-moNGnS33siNS4dkC0vEuPhpu8CpTacAQ7VlBip86v7ZS6IiXOZe4Q4oS9_qamEmiCQiWFT0rNHw4CNDf2_ehd3VpKeLmu8uu-nTPuBPzfitO7zNaarsDmyuf0g8/s1600/IMG_5265.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFCA2p8vbRFRrzkJL-moNGnS33siNS4dkC0vEuPhpu8CpTacAQ7VlBip86v7ZS6IiXOZe4Q4oS9_qamEmiCQiWFT0rNHw4CNDf2_ehd3VpKeLmu8uu-nTPuBPzfitO7zNaarsDmyuf0g8/s320/IMG_5265.JPG" width="240" height="320" data-original-width="1200" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
Last summer, after I knew that I needed a riding habit shirt for Costume College, I started researching them. I say "research"... it was a very unscientific search, consisting mostly of bloggers who've already made them. There's known examples at <a href="https://www.herefordshire.gov.uk/leisure-and-culture/museums-and-galleries/museums-and-galleries-general-information/#hereford">The Hereford Museum and Art Gallery</a>, which was the basis for the pattern by <a href="http://www.jpryan.com/details/RidingHabitShirt.html">JP Ryan</a>. At the time, I didn't want to spend the money on a pattern plus shipping, which is so expensive to Canada, and then exchange rates, which are terrible, and possibly customs fees. I would have been paying at least $40 Cdn, JUST for the pattern. Ouch! <br />
<br />
So I hunted down made ones. Here is a not-complete list of bloggers who've made habit shirts:<br />
<a href="http://blog.americanduchess.com/2014/03/1740s-riding-habit-waistcoat-and-shirt.html"><br />
American Duchess</a><br />
<a href="http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/riding_habit2.html">The Fashionable Past</a><br />
<a href="http://mantuadiary.blogspot.ca/2009/03/hello-again-i-apologize-for-being-out.html">Diary of a Mantua-Maker</a><br />
<a href="http://rufflesnotrifles.blogspot.ca/2014/09/a-simple-riding-habit-shirt-with.html">Ruffles not Rifles</a><br />
<a href="http://www.couturemayah.info/eng18th%20century%20underwear.html">Couture Mayah</a><br />
<a href="http://www.afracturedfairytale.com/My-Blog/May-2013/A-Few-Notes-on-Habit-Shirt-Construction.aspx">A Fractured Fairytale</a><br />
<a href="http://augustintytar.blogspot.ca/2012/06/late-1770s-riding-habit-in-style-of.html">Before the Automobile</a><br />
<a href="http://what-i-made.blogspot.ca/2015/09/18th-century-riding-habit-shirt.html">Look What I Made</a><br />
<a href="https://reconstructinghistory.com/a-ladys-habit-shirt/">Reconstructing History</a><br />
<br />
From these, I gleaned measurements, and created the best set I could come up with. I had some linen leftover from <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2014/03/hsf14-4-under-it-all-1700s-chemise.html">my shift</a>, but a limited amount. With guidance about mens' shirts from <a href="https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/440651.Costume_Close_Up">Costume Close-Up</a> and <a href="http://marquise.de/en/index.html">La Couteriere Parisienne</a>, I decided on the best use of what linen was left, and then took a deep breath and cut it out.<br />
<br />
In the interest of following these lovely ladies' footsteps, I cut my linen so:<br />
<br />
Body: 24" Wide x 30" long, split 16"/14" Front-Back, split CF to neck, and slit 12" in the center (6" on either side of CF)<br />
Sleeves: 15" wide x 23" long<br />
Sleeve gusset: 6" square<br />
Neck Gusset: 3" square<br />
Collar: 16" x 5"<br />
Cuffs: 8.5" x 3"<br />
<br />
I purposely did not cut ruffles. If I choose to add them, they often would have been cut from a nicer material than the rest of the shirt, and I was so limited on fabric. These measurements include 1/2" seam allowances. (But for real, if you struggle with creating a pattern, JP Ryan's habit shirt pattern is wonderful!!)<br />
<br />
I know I started the reasearch while I was on vacation in early June, but I don't think I actually got started until after I got home again. While on vacation, I took the sleeves off of <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2014/03/hsf14-4-under-it-all-1700s-chemise.html">my shift</a> and narrowed and shortened them. Some of the habit shirt pieces got cut out of the those scraps. Sewing with linen is so lovely, so I opted to do it all by hand. Everything was going well, and in early July I thought I actually had a chance at having it ready and wearable for Costume College!<br />
<br />
Until... I put in the neck gussets upside down. I had folded the little gusset squares in half and attached the raw edges to my neck slits, opted not to flat-fell the seams, gathered the neckline and attached it to the collar, AND sewn the collar down. I figured that the seams would be on the inside, and then I could flat-fell them down after CoCo. When I went to try it on, that's when I noticed that the raw seams faced UP for the whole world to see. Argh! I also wasn't happy with the fit -- I'd made a channel for the back waist to gather through, which made it feel weird around the shoulders and center back, and made it ridiculously short (the tie would have gone VERY high around my torso), plus one cuff was a lot bigger than the other. I was discouraged and put it in the Naughty Pile. I took a modern dress shirt to CoCo for my habit class instead.<br />
<br />
While at CoCo, I picked up JP Ryan's habit shirt pattern in the marketplace. She'd had a couple on display and one for sale that was purchased by another attendee, and they were all BEAUTIFUL, so I wanted to pick it up if I could. Exchange rates were still terrible, but at least I didn't have to pay for shipping, and guaranteed no customs fees! I read the directions a few times, intending to get more linen and start over, all while thinking that my original attempt could be salvaged for something else. <br />
<br />
Sometimes it's lucky that it takes me forever to decide on stuff. Finally, towards the end of 2017, I decided that I really wanted to put some serious thought into getting the riding habit done. I'd picked up some quilted silk in LA to make into a petticoat (done in September), to wear under the habit petticoat, and while I could get the petticoat done as soon as I find the fabric in my stash, I still needed the habit shirt done before I could commit to fitting the waistcoat or jacket. <br />
<br />
And then it kinda fits into this month's <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2018/">Historical Sew Monthly 2018</a>. I WAS going to relegate this project to "salvage fabric", but then concluded that I could just... mend it. Take apart the offending fit issues and re-shape it, the right way. And so I did.<br />
<br />
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BdnYCZMhtru/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BdnYCZMhtru/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Finally taking off the collar and upside down neck gussets to fix my riding habit shirt 😞 Also happening: fixing the back hem and shortening one cuff (so many mistakes on this project!) #ridinghabit #habitshirt #18thcentury #nopattern #hsm2018janprogress</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-01-06T16:47:06+00:00">Jan 6, 2018 at 8:47am PST</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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The pieces came off very easily - hooray for handsewing! I even could have salvaged most of the thread (I didn't, but I could have). The collar, neck gussets, back hem, and longer cuff were all removed within an hour. I made sure to put the neck gussets on the proper side, and this time flat-felled them down. I reused my gathering thread to gather the neckline back onto the collar, and finished that area up. The back got its small seam allowance turned in and tacked down, and some small pleats taken at the centre back to narrow it a bit. That will get tacked to a tie when I can pick up some narrow twill tape. Finally, I cut almost 2" off the cuff (what was I thinking the first time??) and reattached that. All told, the alterations took 3 hours of hand sewing time to reattach, and I was back to where it had been when it went on the naughty pile.<br />
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Next up I had to figure out my button situation. JP Ryan and her assistant, Feather, had had some pre-made Dorset buttons for sale at the class, but I had lacked any cash to buy them. They can be purchased from <a href="http://www.wmboothdraper.com/">Wm, Booth, Draper</a>, but for a variety of reasons, this isn't an option right now. I couldn't bring myself to use modern plastic buttons, I just couldn't. So I looked up <a href="https://www.craftstylish.com/item/42688/how-to-make-dorset-buttons/page/all">how to make Dorset buttons</a> and made some, using modern embroidery floss and the rings that I had pulled off of the tie-backs that had come with the curtains for <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2017/12/curtain-along-gown.html">my curtain-along dress</a>. The rings were just slightly larger than the 1/2" ones recommended by JP Ryan, so I went with it. I used <a href="http://www.craftstylish.com/item/42688/how-to-make-dorset-buttons/page/all">this tutorial</a> to create them. I had trouble getting 8 even spokes around the ring, but I ended up liking the odd-number spoked buttons better. Each button took around 20 minutes to make (timed while I was watching Forensic Files -- one button per episode). <br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BdozdElBbWT/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BdozdElBbWT/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Making my first ever #dorset #buttons for the #habitshirt! I like the top two (with an odd number of spokes) better than the bottom one. But it's late, so the last one will be made tomorrow!</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-01-07T06:05:55+00:00">Jan 6, 2018 at 10:05pm PST</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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Finally, I made buttonholes on the cuffs and collar of the shirt, and attached my buttons. Aside from the tie and some kind of cravat or stock, my habit shirt is complete! <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjch6h8gkFg7-W8mB2oTm2lmUoXOnUlvnBiOhexSVWBJYem4haDaLSbOe7XEG3C48x-4HR9lEpLMq7WYaXilLV7NWyQFsW5xYBG3YQ7pCFvGUDU1buCKGFuiDVWYhmswBKxj-nzz09gF5k/s1600/IMG_5262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjch6h8gkFg7-W8mB2oTm2lmUoXOnUlvnBiOhexSVWBJYem4haDaLSbOe7XEG3C48x-4HR9lEpLMq7WYaXilLV7NWyQFsW5xYBG3YQ7pCFvGUDU1buCKGFuiDVWYhmswBKxj-nzz09gF5k/s320/IMG_5262.JPG" width="240" height="320" data-original-width="1200" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqiB-Whpi3tirKNAqHQDA_z6Z1irx54hw4VF_WpA1pEoHJRH6sgy9oXdCwXpzx_eyjnEuyT4xIkGDXOFBcovwd1aWTzvbCS6NUdbntFsYBbiFhYnssmxyBzuCv6ptxX9yqiYQFXFGmk0s/s1600/IMG_5266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqiB-Whpi3tirKNAqHQDA_z6Z1irx54hw4VF_WpA1pEoHJRH6sgy9oXdCwXpzx_eyjnEuyT4xIkGDXOFBcovwd1aWTzvbCS6NUdbntFsYBbiFhYnssmxyBzuCv6ptxX9yqiYQFXFGmk0s/s320/IMG_5266.JPG" width="240" height="320" data-original-width="1200" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div>Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-70190550196999105632018-01-21T13:44:00.000-07:002018-01-21T13:44:54.755-07:002017 Year in ReviewI didn't really sew a lot this past year. I'm not that surprised, I had a rather busy year! Between taking care of my mental health, a new position at work, and other various events, I ended up knitting more than sewing. I've included a couple of major projects here.<br />
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<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2017/02/hsm-17-1-firsts-lasts-mid-victorian.html">Mid-Victorian chemise and drawers</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAUpHTQY8dQk6k81hehddEVHki8ni9tzPb9v-gQzHD7X8Y3HUEtG3HiX6-xv9kjr1Hs10-TozMLxUMk3J4jk0MZMsFi_HHXxhHLtcOiqdHlHc9p5snQqO2F4hcc1mYDFqgKd_4Gi1CLm8/s1600/20170201_204948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAUpHTQY8dQk6k81hehddEVHki8ni9tzPb9v-gQzHD7X8Y3HUEtG3HiX6-xv9kjr1Hs10-TozMLxUMk3J4jk0MZMsFi_HHXxhHLtcOiqdHlHc9p5snQqO2F4hcc1mYDFqgKd_4Gi1CLm8/s320/20170201_204948.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600"></a></div><br />
Blue Regency Gown<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR0VFruDoUP9evYepz8aQYg7YZD4Swj8kobQYhvz9Ev9nYXk3DKdaw96NSBIrLkx19mcicI8-3wqD6jfknIrYF1a2qNe3YJvK8NZsWaUyTEdxZ34PI8NDUgTif3zRWVY6v1_TrhVyjLQg/s1600/20170325_175152_HDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR0VFruDoUP9evYepz8aQYg7YZD4Swj8kobQYhvz9Ev9nYXk3DKdaw96NSBIrLkx19mcicI8-3wqD6jfknIrYF1a2qNe3YJvK8NZsWaUyTEdxZ34PI8NDUgTif3zRWVY6v1_TrhVyjLQg/s320/20170325_175152_HDR.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600"></a></div><br />
18th century petticoats<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYvK68M_nDqhcwdaWlkL04ljnowJSnOz42tyutNZd1RRQNVGXtKJ0R74iz9MRCqNZQA3q-e_M4vKFMlSfIkYA8wDX_053Rsb3VuMdVRCopXF_suhhMlviMg-sZ-u2jbjADZTPbVo3MJR4/s1600/IMG_20170417_220729.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYvK68M_nDqhcwdaWlkL04ljnowJSnOz42tyutNZd1RRQNVGXtKJ0R74iz9MRCqNZQA3q-e_M4vKFMlSfIkYA8wDX_053Rsb3VuMdVRCopXF_suhhMlviMg-sZ-u2jbjADZTPbVo3MJR4/s320/IMG_20170417_220729.jpg" width="320" height="320" data-original-width="1564" data-original-height="1564"></a></div><br />
<a href="https://www.scrooppatterns.com/products/miramar-dress-top-tunic">Miramar Dress</a> and <a href="https://www.scrooppatterns.com/products/wonder-unders">Wonder Unders</a> slip<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7m_9cfoMxvy7h765qDALhahow5XTlQIoOYUAAQZR47YPgBIu9anLpaZtzMg5llHn3wUeKbNpKUM9tl078Z4j_aK44X2auDcK2DyzEWt6Elc-PHnHULIB9qXWIWg2Nh8osvuc5CSXZwqs/s1600/IMG_20170618_184038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7m_9cfoMxvy7h765qDALhahow5XTlQIoOYUAAQZR47YPgBIu9anLpaZtzMg5llHn3wUeKbNpKUM9tl078Z4j_aK44X2auDcK2DyzEWt6Elc-PHnHULIB9qXWIWg2Nh8osvuc5CSXZwqs/s320/IMG_20170618_184038.jpg" width="320" height="320" data-original-width="1564" data-original-height="1564"></a></div><br />
<a href="http://nutmegsews.com">NutMeg Sews'</a> <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/projects/totchipanda/big-d-mn-pineapple-1840-2">Pineapple Reticule</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ9cQuWItpwSM9ySLsmTV56XyqgZCflurco5ShVz_392Pl0WXwLGTTKFECFSe7sGLp3MCGziIQ9osejD8mRUS8g7atmZBnNjSdCEL7ig4ft0YdtDAqSbN5oGdPE35YIzEBi0zV-N-IA6s/s1600/20170521_223650.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ9cQuWItpwSM9ySLsmTV56XyqgZCflurco5ShVz_392Pl0WXwLGTTKFECFSe7sGLp3MCGziIQ9osejD8mRUS8g7atmZBnNjSdCEL7ig4ft0YdtDAqSbN5oGdPE35YIzEBi0zV-N-IA6s/s320/20170521_223650.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600"></a></div><br />
<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2018/01/victorian-tea-gown-1882.html">Victorian Tea Gown</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjne6ae7_y5Ied4IW3Tz63KeDmBGKjTkK5Z6g3gh_OVauZnzDYJqRZLJ9gcrUuEF2yXUDH5VaOVn7sJS3GGxTwatFSC2w1tk_49MFt5BcrTVeNaIzzNdxAcKCrtIc6IOza-NJhQCxdA30o/s1600/20170730_165410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjne6ae7_y5Ied4IW3Tz63KeDmBGKjTkK5Z6g3gh_OVauZnzDYJqRZLJ9gcrUuEF2yXUDH5VaOVn7sJS3GGxTwatFSC2w1tk_49MFt5BcrTVeNaIzzNdxAcKCrtIc6IOza-NJhQCxdA30o/s320/20170730_165410.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600"></a></div><br />
1780s stays<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfmzMXTkD7pq_d5MjV4ScadlXvlofRt5pci21ujKkf5sBpfOTRxmR9T0ms4xYiLToi5mWtjQm1LDtgi7yh2BV6X8cdtxmzudEHusQOY1FpJ5ALaOdspZpoGXe_HAa19ajz6Ng9yNxncMs/s1600/1499801912372.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfmzMXTkD7pq_d5MjV4ScadlXvlofRt5pci21ujKkf5sBpfOTRxmR9T0ms4xYiLToi5mWtjQm1LDtgi7yh2BV6X8cdtxmzudEHusQOY1FpJ5ALaOdspZpoGXe_HAa19ajz6Ng9yNxncMs/s320/1499801912372.jpg" width="320" height="320" data-original-width="391" data-original-height="391"></a></div><br />
<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2017/12/ikea-ljusoga-italian-gown.html">IKEA LJUSOGA Italian Gown</a><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0sZsqE8I5Ysi1JZZlpQTC8IFiB-kimcT0rGpD0CtjDMAQWEV6UXPP2vmgVsP3vTRpLDV_F1DdizpCxam6uAZ0x32hDzT94RthwIDZKMzwWjQh14eB540cbVrV9QldYgE_wVMwUuCTASY/s1600/20170729_210602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0sZsqE8I5Ysi1JZZlpQTC8IFiB-kimcT0rGpD0CtjDMAQWEV6UXPP2vmgVsP3vTRpLDV_F1DdizpCxam6uAZ0x32hDzT94RthwIDZKMzwWjQh14eB540cbVrV9QldYgE_wVMwUuCTASY/s320/20170729_210602.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600"></a></div><br />
Star Trek TOS Season 3 Skant<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFMaUwQLKkwwHba2-eoSl164W8ATXI__hw_zL-fUAv1tmp9qndomr-QheYlsnrQBxVFTElqA7ryF2HJpfiK3WBi3SEoWd0XYPab085-w9nIDVpSHnacvLeNkUvai5PUbyA_XxfcFR8Nz8/s1600/20170723_094725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFMaUwQLKkwwHba2-eoSl164W8ATXI__hw_zL-fUAv1tmp9qndomr-QheYlsnrQBxVFTElqA7ryF2HJpfiK3WBi3SEoWd0XYPab085-w9nIDVpSHnacvLeNkUvai5PUbyA_XxfcFR8Nz8/s320/20170723_094725.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600"></a></div><br />
18th Century Cap<br />
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<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2017/12/curtain-along-gown.html">Finished Curtain-Along Gown</a><br />
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Quilted Petticoat<br />
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<a href="https://www.ravelry.com/projects/totchipanda/taylor">Taylor Mitts</a><br />
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Petticoat for Pocket Hoops<br />
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<a href="https://www.ravelry.com/projects/totchipanda/salal">Salal Sweater</a><br />
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1780s Split Rump<br />
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Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-8927096194173208922018-01-03T11:39:00.000-07:002018-01-03T11:39:21.251-07:00Victorian Tea Gown (1882)I got a bee in my bonnet to make a tea gown 'round about June. I thought it would be great for comfy Sunday wear at Costume College. I was right :D<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8yYEfbBQRs3v8CeNHRNSimkVrvT6PWtBCQwBC2nV1LTtLCP5W7fTwbhixm3Bhy3oyn-o5xUe_usBkT0lrfHw0hQRYrq1tAzwU81ZIn7V7qtkJOc_E0qjC-vyamH4_bDcXzNNQC6IOOhk/s1600/IMG_20170730_165813_532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8yYEfbBQRs3v8CeNHRNSimkVrvT6PWtBCQwBC2nV1LTtLCP5W7fTwbhixm3Bhy3oyn-o5xUe_usBkT0lrfHw0hQRYrq1tAzwU81ZIn7V7qtkJOc_E0qjC-vyamH4_bDcXzNNQC6IOOhk/s320/IMG_20170730_165813_532.jpg" width="320" height="320" data-original-width="1564" data-original-height="1564" /></a></div><br />
This was a very straightforward make from <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/1882-tea-gown.html">Truly Victorian</a>. I made my usual adjustment to the bust area (removing roughly 3"), and lowered the necklines just a tad (half an inch or so). I remembered seeing a gorgeous tea gown made in the curtain-along fabric on <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/2013/08/curtain-along-meetup.html">Festive Attyre's round-up</a>, so I used a similar looking print for mine, liberated from my mum's fabric stash in early 2014:<br />
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It's a very standard weight quilting cotton, and I have TONS of it, which is great because I love it. <br />
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This came together in just a few days. The bodice and hem are lined with a medium-weight natural linen. I polled my Facebook and Instagram feeds for button options. The three colours I had the most of from my Gramma's button stash each had their cheerleaders, but I went with brown. <br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BV3gg75hef2/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BV3gg75hef2/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">These are my current #button choices for the #teagown. The shiny ones arw half-inch, while the brown is slightly larger. What would you choose?</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-06-28T02:57:52+00:00">Jun 27, 2017 at 7:57pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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I put the buttonholes too far into the gown and so had to put the buttons on the very edge of the front seam. Something I will keep in mind for my next Victorian make. Buttons and facings got sewn while watching Downton Abbey, and I had SO MANY pins for the facing that I got to make tons of flowers in my pin cushion!<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BWDMP0BByPK/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BWDMP0BByPK/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">When working on sewing down facings on a full-length gown, make flowers out of the multitude of pins! #victorian #teagown #yegsew #milesoffacings</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-07-02T15:51:39+00:00">Jul 2, 2017 at 8:51am PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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The back neckline did not get a facing, and instead was covered by self bias-tape. I used a whole yard to make the tape, so I have a ton of that now too. <br />
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I haven't put darts into the bodice yet, because I'm still undecided on the fit! Without darts, the gown fits my uncorseted body perfectly (so great for lazy Sunday wear!), but if I want to wear a corset, I would need darts to fit it better. Hard choices! It also needs some trimming. The fabric is so busy, but I found <a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/158923">this wonderful tea gown</a> at the Met that would be perfectly matched to this gown. (oooh now that I'm looking at it again, I really wanna get started on putting that gorgeous trim on!)<br />
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On Sunday I wore it with a cami and leggings underneath, a petticoat (also by Truly Victorian), and accessorized with my pineapple reticule and the honeycomb shawl that I thought would be extra weight in my suitcase. It came in handy, as this was the least amount of layers I wore all weekend and I was cold!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2zyZOxZjVhRZzEQt4hz4Ipkwx0Cxob_iDcJECzMup_4U9lBE82DS4wzVXb2B6i56GrPHIaGVN1lbkNAhyQFLhgQS4YpzCfaDSvt2Zma_7WEz6_hi-sY5rT4lwbME6k7T7JK-tXzSNmtU/s1600/20170730_165410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2zyZOxZjVhRZzEQt4hz4Ipkwx0Cxob_iDcJECzMup_4U9lBE82DS4wzVXb2B6i56GrPHIaGVN1lbkNAhyQFLhgQS4YpzCfaDSvt2Zma_7WEz6_hi-sY5rT4lwbME6k7T7JK-tXzSNmtU/s320/20170730_165410.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVT5uOmEKsMOvGuvIAsVySINhb_I8x7Z3rJPGk01ZIvuBcHw0pfXQTOA5QmXiCstKj-sHPf53KgThuAjYGbvpkI4plJwIJ4Xp4842neOgnKgpY4Voi99qVv7BE2gH1rZu9tW_LbVhgnWs/s1600/20170730_165438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVT5uOmEKsMOvGuvIAsVySINhb_I8x7Z3rJPGk01ZIvuBcHw0pfXQTOA5QmXiCstKj-sHPf53KgThuAjYGbvpkI4plJwIJ4Xp4842neOgnKgpY4Voi99qVv7BE2gH1rZu9tW_LbVhgnWs/s320/20170730_165438.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div>Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-88205471688671607202017-12-30T14:34:00.000-07:002017-12-30T16:40:03.674-07:00IKEA LJUSOGA Italian GownWhen I saw <a href="https://freshfrippery.com/2016/06/22/matching-ljusoga-18th-century-dresses-at-the-norcal-pirate-festival/">Fresh Frippery's post</a> on a group of dresses made with IKEA's Ljusoga bedsheets, I knew I needed to get in on this gorgeous fabric! Shortly after, I had sold my old phone and had a little extra cash, so I bought the <a href="http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/90314360/#/70314361">king-sized set</a> and waited for inspiration to strike.<br />
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I can't remember if inspiration struck so much as that I wanted to get going on this project. <a href="https://reconstructinghistory.com/product/rh822-open-robe-anglais-with-polonaise-option/">The Modern Mantua-Maker</a>'s stunning Italian gown was definitely one inspiration, as was the Italian gown pattern in the <a href="http://agreeabletyrant.dar.org/">An Agreeable Tyrant</a> catalog. As much as I love the pleated back gowns, I wanted to try a new style, and the quarter-backed Italian gowns were all the rage this past year. So that's what I decided to do.<br />
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I started with petticoats, as I usually do. I hand-sewed the printed one, and machined the white taffeta one. I also misjudged skirt lengths and got not enough of the taffeta, so it is extra short! I've since added a ruffle that I can't decide if it looks silly or not.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-dmAbsxgSoxqaCRjGkVAKlCbZLe0YKEqlLwKqfwT9LD9DS9MhRCOnaVTQP8yE_sdCgPD3NEB5hH2OBcCEBHfwEyZuzBPC4tOMErJ8YQdOgXoHiKNQJkW_QyMain5UPTV940gfTRHjLU/s1600/20170422_102459.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht-dmAbsxgSoxqaCRjGkVAKlCbZLe0YKEqlLwKqfwT9LD9DS9MhRCOnaVTQP8yE_sdCgPD3NEB5hH2OBcCEBHfwEyZuzBPC4tOMErJ8YQdOgXoHiKNQJkW_QyMain5UPTV940gfTRHjLU/s320/20170422_102459.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a><br />
White poly taffeta (front view).</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdXzQ-HXOpAgWpDj6nKYW4FUFMUmZ4IZP9rF0HlRbOrQiqYBCeEDbz8DnYPpuyYTmL7BcV9a5alpzvNKwccS-jDVCH9vD5Ea3_EeFq7HN7ic9ja6YG1olhGDVca-tvjH_h9vxf_0MKgVg/s1600/20170422_102656.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdXzQ-HXOpAgWpDj6nKYW4FUFMUmZ4IZP9rF0HlRbOrQiqYBCeEDbz8DnYPpuyYTmL7BcV9a5alpzvNKwccS-jDVCH9vD5Ea3_EeFq7HN7ic9ja6YG1olhGDVca-tvjH_h9vxf_0MKgVg/s320/20170422_102656.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a><br />
Worn over the white one (back view).</div><br />
Then it was time to make the dress. I again used Reconstructing History's 822 pattern as a base, and then modified it heavily using the gown pattern on Page 39 of Patterns of Fashion 1. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGULmZ4lZ06OM4rsKSZukn3x9fNJDCTq_oe-rqHgzh-ooIOw39K1pnwWIfYtjzKZ9NYi92E9WRQQSgXMz1-8Iuz0-Ag6VmL2gC304gMfG_IR0u_36KD0UdAL7Wg7EKj4OhBCbuMQXrHo/s1600/20170422_120759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuGULmZ4lZ06OM4rsKSZukn3x9fNJDCTq_oe-rqHgzh-ooIOw39K1pnwWIfYtjzKZ9NYi92E9WRQQSgXMz1-8Iuz0-Ag6VmL2gC304gMfG_IR0u_36KD0UdAL7Wg7EKj4OhBCbuMQXrHo/s320/20170422_120759.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiihKGGeG5oBQcbnFZsl5m3TLrkJxf4vU5_TXIycjDtH1aQO0BPeMBaAunntZGrNg3c80JDDANqysdVr_8jG_KvOMbmTsIKYuwKtFwAOyEHfBNRHftHq7vaxfxDTvcyHfXZR_3eGonBDV4/s1600/20170422_133231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiihKGGeG5oBQcbnFZsl5m3TLrkJxf4vU5_TXIycjDtH1aQO0BPeMBaAunntZGrNg3c80JDDANqysdVr_8jG_KvOMbmTsIKYuwKtFwAOyEHfBNRHftHq7vaxfxDTvcyHfXZR_3eGonBDV4/s320/20170422_133231.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a><br />
Original pattern in pale green, finished (mostly) pattern in dark green.</div><br />
My mock-up was OK...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQYelOKmU4iDTsVbfXdU16IBV-z5TqtonKNFGQmZtZGUXAu8-lQmizPKXvLRQKrapJL4EhCv0uxRXpjo8UlmFH08xXFd7HhsVJmsRgUza8SupzF_fjFaAQf0BBApztM05Cz30L4mqbas/s1600/20170422_174958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQYelOKmU4iDTsVbfXdU16IBV-z5TqtonKNFGQmZtZGUXAu8-lQmizPKXvLRQKrapJL4EhCv0uxRXpjo8UlmFH08xXFd7HhsVJmsRgUza8SupzF_fjFaAQf0BBApztM05Cz30L4mqbas/s320/20170422_174958.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs1rAuvRaRHcWycNLHu_gqWZXihla5m0JKtS1d9ZKCiuMrR9BO-UkIdN4EZRbilh1yPzDlZRjwFY87-AIQTUerSuRqnDgXAKRbPf9tEE0gEx1W-myRdog1w9qnWem8WL9nkNbhYNGXHJY/s1600/20170422_175018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs1rAuvRaRHcWycNLHu_gqWZXihla5m0JKtS1d9ZKCiuMrR9BO-UkIdN4EZRbilh1yPzDlZRjwFY87-AIQTUerSuRqnDgXAKRbPf9tEE0gEx1W-myRdog1w9qnWem8WL9nkNbhYNGXHJY/s320/20170422_175018.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
Aside from the stays issue. The grey cover shows where the stomacher-front stays hit on my body. I didn't want that much showing over top, so that's when I decided I needed a new pair of stays!<br />
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I'd made a custom draft from <a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Stays-Corsets-Historical-Patterns-Translated/dp/1138018236">Stays & Corsets</a>, but was really disappointed with the fit (the draft has you take off a minimal amount of circumference, resulting in a snug t-shirt fit and not a supportive garment). I'll write more about them in another post, but I ended up making the 1780s stays from a pattern originally provided by <a href="http://www.ralphpink.com/">RalphPink.com</a>, which I believe is a straight-up draft from Corsets and Crinolines. It is no longer available there.<br />
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And I was really glad I did, because the new one changed the shape of my bust! My original pair flattened my bust and pushed it up, this one pushes it more forward. This was the shape I wanted for this gown. I did have to add some width and height at the CF neckline to ensure overlap and modesty, but that was an easy fix. Then it was time to forge ahead!<br />
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According to the date stamps on my photos, this dress got picked up again roughly 2.5 weeks before Costume College. Nothing like the last minute to get started. Here's the finished back on July 11:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyeaTakZCAsQC8iQEO6kxht3v-g_6a79WvJF4hE7enXPdQBE7gpNvTiEPzpPb0p-joIZXFZSRQi0ZiFNZBieYvCXkBi7iTLPc83q5jCg9ju4pCxJAVjDI7VvqPwUwfjyq8FxEOKeIZi3Y/s1600/20170711_222835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyeaTakZCAsQC8iQEO6kxht3v-g_6a79WvJF4hE7enXPdQBE7gpNvTiEPzpPb0p-joIZXFZSRQi0ZiFNZBieYvCXkBi7iTLPc83q5jCg9ju4pCxJAVjDI7VvqPwUwfjyq8FxEOKeIZi3Y/s320/20170711_222835.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
And my first on-me fitting with the proper bits on July 13:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCyG5PKkiwv6MKY9CEwJRK6XKCV-fbkkW5gPJLr61spCz3-jeGY3eAawgBNDwxwEyFhHGg_7lBTjUe75uKL4lIFpv8NMyjKC_L_1fHqaoUovbXFhIdDimXEGBkMZ4rxocbZ9lq5E3pP-c/s1600/20170713_185531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCyG5PKkiwv6MKY9CEwJRK6XKCV-fbkkW5gPJLr61spCz3-jeGY3eAawgBNDwxwEyFhHGg_7lBTjUe75uKL4lIFpv8NMyjKC_L_1fHqaoUovbXFhIdDimXEGBkMZ4rxocbZ9lq5E3pP-c/s320/20170713_185531.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a><br />
<i>I'm putting this unflattering photo in because of that whole "myth of perfection" series that ran around the blogosphere last year. Welcome to what I look like when I sew on days where the temperature reached +30C. For comparison, as I write this it's -35C, and I look much the same ;)</i></div><br />
I was pleased with the fit, and the amount of overlap I had at CF. I ended up cutting a lot of it off, but I was grateful for it. <br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BWk5mbRhw37/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BWk5mbRhw37/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">We have sleeves and a neckline! Now for the skirt! #18thcentury #sleevils #handsewn #duvetcover #roadtococo</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-07-15T18:02:54+00:00">Jul 15, 2017 at 11:02am PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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By July 15, the bodice had sleeves, so I moved on to the skirt. I used the POF gown again, cutting my panels the full height of the diagram, and shaped the front top edge before pleating. I used a full width of the duvet cover, and a little extra (which I machined on with cotton thread; by then I just didn't want to do another long plain seam; and also had to piece a tiny corner on at the bottom where it met the skirt). I cut and hemmed slits for pocket access and hemmed the front edges (thought I had while stitching the hem: were silk selvedges nice in the 1700s, and you wouldn't need to hem them? Brilliant!). Then I pleated forever, having to redo it at least once. I split the center back to accomodate the point at the back, but stitched it back up a couple inches. I had two layers of pins going on to keep everything in place, and semi live-blogged about the process on Instagram:<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BWlXjChhkT8/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BWlXjChhkT8/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Getting there... #18thcentury #handsewn #duvetcover #pinsforever</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-07-15T22:24:35+00:00">Jul 15, 2017 at 3:24pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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A note on the back construction: I used a technique previously known as "<a href="http://stay-ingalive.blogspot.ca/2011/03/how-to-do-weird-running-whip-stitch.html">weird running whip stitch thingy</a>" (Stay-ing Alive) or "<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQ0X2YC3Pv8">the stitch with no name</a>" (Burnley & Trowbridge; link goes to a YouTube video of how to do it) and is now known as the English Stitch (<a href="https://www.american-duchess.com/index.php?_route_=book/american-duchess-guide">The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking</a>). I LOVE this stitch, it makes a neat, tiny seam that is very secure, and gets your back sewn together with one pass of the needle. Very efficient!<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BWlhtQHBijI/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BWlhtQHBijI/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">😍😍😍 my fingers are so sore and the lighting and background are terrible BUT... I got out all the layers and dressed up Josephine and i am IN LOVE. cant wait to try this gorgeous thing on myself! #18thcentury #handsewn #duvetcover #roadtococo #hotdamn</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-07-15T23:53:21+00:00">Jul 15, 2017 at 4:53pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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I finished the bulk of the work in a week! I sewed mostly in the evenings after work, for 3-4 hours at a time, while watching RuPaul's Drag Race or Star Trek: Deep Space Nine on Netflix, and the skirt was completed on July 15 by 6pm. My fingers hurt (really need to focus on proper thimble usage) and I was so proud of what I'd accomplished.<br />
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The petticoat and gown got hemmed a few days later, and I despaired on trimming. By this time, talk was going around the blogosphere about "millinery", a term I'd only heard applied to hats before but seems to have meant all the little finishing touches (so, kinda like a hat) like ruffles and accessories. I made a couple of little ruffles to go into the elbows of this gown but did not have the brain power to suss out a neckline treatment. So I cut a length of scrap taffeta with pinking shears and tied it into a bow to pin to the neckline, and cut a triangle of voile to use as a neckerchief and fill the neckline in. (I needed it anyway, the straps I added to the stays were totally visible on my shoulders.)<br />
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A few hours before the gala, I took a quick peek into the dealers hall, where a booth was set up with almost every kind of trim anyone could want. I picked out a pleated organza (certainly poly) and turquoise velvet ribbon and rushed upstairs to start sewing it on.<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BXJu9t4hMft/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BXJu9t4hMft/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Last minute trimming for #costumecollege2017 #gala #bettergetstarted #yegsewistinla</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-07-30T01:21:51+00:00">Jul 29, 2017 at 6:21pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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All in all, I'm really happy with this dress! It was definitely a challenging project, but it suited where I am in my sewing journey, and I'm looking forward to the next one.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0Fwu8FWOuLELBjRm3wiaUOI011d0-95nYEZSen0K2Ijf5MfdkDOqidYEf8zLGQzP0WX80cwj-AMZOE2V9tpC9KyOEK3pieEaxG-2lv128GeIouxZ60w3QiC1xJ30hRTDQnJVkQWuUSI/s1600/20170729_210602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf0Fwu8FWOuLELBjRm3wiaUOI011d0-95nYEZSen0K2Ijf5MfdkDOqidYEf8zLGQzP0WX80cwj-AMZOE2V9tpC9KyOEK3pieEaxG-2lv128GeIouxZ60w3QiC1xJ30hRTDQnJVkQWuUSI/s400/20170729_210602.jpg" width="225" height="400" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho-0hJBj8NO57q9BJIYJ6MeNlb-sjeyo1NSU6pwc64_ZQojjwUJAnj5GfOpjUfvTzyXPeLk3JlOCGoajODbb4bxSbBnyL37Pa3b3syGmy-d5iL4PmYZ8_r7kNo7I0A9MRcz7CnE2-gBME/s1600/20170729_210621.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho-0hJBj8NO57q9BJIYJ6MeNlb-sjeyo1NSU6pwc64_ZQojjwUJAnj5GfOpjUfvTzyXPeLk3JlOCGoajODbb4bxSbBnyL37Pa3b3syGmy-d5iL4PmYZ8_r7kNo7I0A9MRcz7CnE2-gBME/s400/20170729_210621.jpg" width="225" height="400" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div>Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-30534208847917887902017-12-29T13:29:00.000-07:002017-12-30T22:39:03.716-07:00Curtain-Along GownBack in 2013, I was utterly charmed by the <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/search/label/curtain-along">curtain-along gown, hosted by Festive Attyre</a>. It was so neat to see everyone in their gowns, how widely the print could be used across the decades! It wasn't until I saw <a href="http://mandierw.blogspot.ca/2013/04/dress-in-day-amateur-style.html">Amanda's dress-in-a-day gown</a>, however, (which I found months after the dress was posted) that I decided I need to join in. I kept an eye on Amazon and finally picked up some curtain panels, 3 cream and 1 black. (I'm still on the hunt for 2 more black panels, just so you know...)<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/1HgL3nuh3A/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/1HgL3nuh3A/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">#curtainalong gown is nearly finished! Just needs a hem :)</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2015-04-06T02:46:50+00:00">Apr 5, 2015 at 7:46pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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I don't remember the timeline on this anymore. I started sewing it while I was watching The Amazing Race on cable TV, intending to hand-sew the entire thing -- my first 100% handsewn gown -- and see how long it would take. I'm pretty sure it was 2014, with a push of finishing in 2015, where it sat without a hem for another 2 years. I initially wasn't going to take it to Costume College, feeling that I didn't have time to finish the hemming, but I did end up taking it, and hemming it on Thursday in between my limited class and the opening of registration. I wore it on Saturday of Costume College. <br />
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Because it's been so long since I started, I'm not really sure what some of my thought processes were. My petticoat was weirdly long, puddling on the floor at my feet. When I tried it on over a bum pad, the back length was fine, but the front was still too long. I pinned it up and gave it a really fast hem, trying to angle in nearly 4" of fabric at center front. (I need to take that out and do it properly!)<br />
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The cat liked it though. Hiding under skirts is his favourite!</div><br />
The gown hem is also much deeper at front than sides or back, but because it's open, it was a lot easier to do.<br />
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I had fitted it over a pair of stays with a stomacher. I used the Reconstructing History pattern as the bodice base, with guidance from <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.ca/2012/12/a-robe-langlaise-or-en-fourreau-gown.html">The Fashionable Past</a> for construction, and Gown #3 in <a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Costume-Close-Up-Clothing-Construction-1750-1790/dp/0896762262">Costume Close-up</a> for the sleeve, trimming, and skirt tying-up placement. The trim was cut with pinking shears and gathered by hand before being applied.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdcmZSA8ymFXKcIwk603rJj2JdYzJtxIXUTgVkNDRQbjUtlnVzTcy3-GWtBR0B3K7e-Yc5SB57AR_9fzJAWlNjqkWbc8eMthehMYg9UY4rEj8my5PfulrSxa49QiXyKl2vtUXdzO13X8A/s1600/20170729_124545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdcmZSA8ymFXKcIwk603rJj2JdYzJtxIXUTgVkNDRQbjUtlnVzTcy3-GWtBR0B3K7e-Yc5SB57AR_9fzJAWlNjqkWbc8eMthehMYg9UY4rEj8my5PfulrSxa49QiXyKl2vtUXdzO13X8A/s320/20170729_124545.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9lZ6rzoAqrqMdCfmueFMCCSOPDqgcYNeJ_7hp24DXfOt8wE6urJVeBMtHumqbxsmHvuAO4hrzsPrvnj18rWNAknhGBxTfVYvjSOY4LDcxVWUNpmVtz80aZtaaVhvILYLBSbAKRh4I9l0/s1600/20170729_124301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9lZ6rzoAqrqMdCfmueFMCCSOPDqgcYNeJ_7hp24DXfOt8wE6urJVeBMtHumqbxsmHvuAO4hrzsPrvnj18rWNAknhGBxTfVYvjSOY4LDcxVWUNpmVtz80aZtaaVhvILYLBSbAKRh4I9l0/s320/20170729_124301.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
And how long did it take to hand-sew? Not that long. I can't even estimate for this one since it took so long to do it, but my recent hand-sewn gown was done (sans petticoat) in a week of mostly 3-4 hour chunks. <br />
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<b>The Facts:<br />
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Material:</b> 100% cotton<br />
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<b>Pattern:</b> Started out in life as <a href="https://reconstructinghistory.com/product/rh822-open-robe-anglais-with-polonaise-option/">Reconstructing History 822</a><br />
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<b>Year: </b> 1770-ish<br />
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<b>Notions:</b> cotton thread<br />
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<b>How historically accurate is it?</b> I would probably pass in-period<br />
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<b>Hours to complete:</b> at a guess, 30-40.<br />
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<b>First worn:</b> July 29, 2017 at Costume College<br />
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<b>Total cost:</b> $50 CDNCrystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-72276744965682234112017-12-28T15:26:00.000-07:002017-12-28T15:26:23.287-07:00Costume College 2017: The Recap<i>Content note: anxiety & related ramblings</i><br />
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Many months later, I want to share my experiences at Costume College this past summer. I wrote it awhile ago and have just been procrastinating on getting it edited and picture-fied. The weather here is sitting at a balmy -32C, so what better time to share a trip to southern California in July? ;)<br />
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I was a big nervous ball of energy leading up to Costume College this year! I didn't finish everything I wanted to bring, and I had to be OK with that, but what I did bring was great! About a week before we left, Nicole had decided not to wear any costumes at all. Since we had planned to wear <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2016/08/adventures-in-cosplay-jareth-goblin-king.html">Sarah and Jareth</a> for the gala, this now meant I didn't <i>have</i> to bring Jareth (or a wig). In light of my wanting to keep luggage as light as possible, and bring as many overlapping outfits as I could, I had a few days to think about what my outfit plans were. In the end, I brought every 18th century piece I had, mid-Victorian (because petticoats), and the tea gown (because petticoats!). I tried to accessorize as much as possible, again overlapping as much as I could. At the last minute, I tossed in a <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/totchipanda/honeycomb-knit-shawl">knitted shawl</a>, thinking it would probably be extra weight.<br />
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The cat definitely would have been extra weight. He did not get packed.</div><br />
Wednesday was travel day. There were four of us on the same flght, but as we'd booked separately, we were all over the plane. I went to pick up Nicole at 5am, but had to go back home for my sunglasses! I nearly left them behind, but hello, California in July. I need to protect my eyes. Luckily we live close together. California seemed very hot to me, with its low 90s and 88% humidity. Edmonton is comparatively very dry, and I met many people over the weekend who were from the Carolinas and Virginia who were so kind in agreeing that it was hot... for me. I resolved to stay inside as much as possible and thoroughly enjoyed the outdoor pool at sunset. We made a trip to a nearby Target to pick up sandwich makings and breakfast materials and snacks, and we got super distracted by all the fun socks for sale. Target, we miss you. We didn't know the hotel had a very local shuttle, so we walked there and took an Uber back, and I managed to burn one shoulder on the walk. Curse you, Canadian tan!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1pNRzFiN0OaAkpVWt-2ogzr28G_2N1-fXqPhwPUQVGF4C5gnMM8qkmxqWUIGd4NgjeLte7FMBk617ztbB0yQ0dZrvS23H3VG1bDutMT3cnwT8Ojd73Ppoghe1t0-FSKJZMxwlaBNptY/s1600/20170729_161131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq1pNRzFiN0OaAkpVWt-2ogzr28G_2N1-fXqPhwPUQVGF4C5gnMM8qkmxqWUIGd4NgjeLte7FMBk617ztbB0yQ0dZrvS23H3VG1bDutMT3cnwT8Ojd73Ppoghe1t0-FSKJZMxwlaBNptY/s320/20170729_161131.jpg" width="320" height="180" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="900" /></a><br />
the view from our room. Nice :)</div><br />
On Thursday, my travelling companions headed to Universal Studios, while I had a limited class in the morning: Riding Habits with <a href="http://jpryan.com/"><i>the</i> JP Ryan</a> (omgomgomg). I opted not to dress up though I had to bring the bits and bobs necessary for fitting (shift, stays, a petticoat, and either a habit shirt or fitted dress shirt). The class went very well! First we all had to be remeasured for waist length, as nearly all of us had measured wrong. We got a pattern with personalized suggestions on where to make alterations, and she showed us how to adjust the patterns for that. I made all of my adjustments to the front, since that is where my squish factor is. I was the first person to finish my waistcoat mock-up, since it turns out that I'm really a very average size, except for the squish! As I worked on the jacket, I stayed dressed in my bits and bobs, and thought boy, this was actually not bad (temperature, comfort, feeling like I belonged... take your pick). I was comfortable in all of the layers.<br />
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After the class, I went back to the room for lunch and to do some sewing until it was time to go back down for the opening of registration. I watched Forensic Files and stitched for like 4 hours, it was wonderful :) I'd started a cap to go with my 18th c. dresses before I left, found I had left the ruffle at home (dang it, I was so sure I'd packed it...), and quickly tried on my <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/search/label/curtain-along">curtain-along gown</a> to mark the hem and hem it. I originally hadn't planned to bring it, but the rearrangement of my costume plans meant I now had space in "the schedule" for it, but it needed a hem! The petticoat was weirdly long, I'm not sure what I was thinking when I made it. The back was fine over the bum roll, but the front was almost 4" too long. It got the world's fastest and most awkward hem. <br />
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The other Big Events on Thursday were the opening of Registration at 7, where there were limited numbers of limited classes available to try and get into (I really wanted to do the fabric district tour on Monday, but had forgotten it on my form), and the pool party. I had waited to eat dinner partly because of nerves and partly because I had no idea when my roommates would be back, and I wanted to eat with them if they hadn't done so yet. They arrived around 7:30 I think? I had terrible wi-fi connection for the first couple days and no cell service, we nearly missed each other! So we got changed for the pool party first and then went to eat, returning as the party was winding down. Oops. But I found my heretofore online-only friend <a href="http://www.gildedgarb.com/">Sara</a> as we'd planned to wear Star Trek TOS skants together, and we had a lovely conversation for our first meeting :D<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyeKUM1LulSouV6B3SrQuNfIbrQWIAa29K5sxG_-mWsDzWow2vpHdggiJ42BjJkwkVpHmiXC1AMZcV5i1PAC7UyGPxUk6_34rTs-nglM737tYqV4RKk1xA11FnnTwz7TWEkNeYyeplmO8/s1600/20170723_094725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyeKUM1LulSouV6B3SrQuNfIbrQWIAa29K5sxG_-mWsDzWow2vpHdggiJ42BjJkwkVpHmiXC1AMZcV5i1PAC7UyGPxUk6_34rTs-nglM737tYqV4RKk1xA11FnnTwz7TWEkNeYyeplmO8/s320/20170723_094725.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a><br />
I loooove the "spiral" design.</div><br />
Friday was mostly a "take in all the sights" day. The marketplace didn't open until after the social in the evening, which was fine. I went to a number of unlimited classes, first supporting <a href="https://www.nutmegsews.com/">NutMeg Sews</a> in her presentation on costuming our living history site, <a href="http://www.fortedmontonpark.com">Fort Edmonton Park</a> :D I was wearing the Butterick 1840s dress, which I'd finally put the last bits on (<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2017/08/hsm-15-6-out-of-your-comfort-zone1840s.html">posts here!</a>) and finally gotten to wear. I got many lovely compliments on it. Most were intrigued by the asymmetrical pleating on the bodice. Perhaps the best compliment I got was from Jennifer Rosbrugh of <a href="http://historicalsewing.com">Historical Sewing</a>, who said (somewhat paraphrased) that I looked like a movie star ;) (What she said was that I reminded her of the actress who played Jane Eyre in the 2006 version, and had really nailed the look, so yay me!) <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLU9VvDR_d35cAECVkOHZEjZ5coDvk8LMb2X0tWcbeQhOCc07fp1DQCPZUrxTsMrk3X1uw6fa79TGiMjPi9sXkuCytVFU0-dexCBrlbj_C-joxLiCJGJ31G0vYlv4dGlG9Px6E8Qyzk-w/s1600/20170728_160553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLU9VvDR_d35cAECVkOHZEjZ5coDvk8LMb2X0tWcbeQhOCc07fp1DQCPZUrxTsMrk3X1uw6fa79TGiMjPi9sXkuCytVFU0-dexCBrlbj_C-joxLiCJGJ31G0vYlv4dGlG9Px6E8Qyzk-w/s320/20170728_160553.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
The social was... overwhelming, for this socially anxious introvert. I wore the Star Trek skant again as that had been my planned social outfit and I didn't have anything else. I did one tour of the room and then hid in the hallway. Maybe because we'd missed the beginning again because we'd gone for dinner and then gotten distracted by the dead mall the restaurant was in, but I heard other people say that they find the social the most anxiety-inducing event too. Ah well. There were some seriously amazing outfits there!<br />
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I found the cap ruffle in my luggage earlier in the day (I knew I'd packed it!), and had to attach it and the muslin cuffs to my gown for the next day. Before bed, I put my hair into rags to ensure I had Big Hair the next day. Ready!<br />
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On Saturday I got myself laced into stays and put on all of the layers for my curtain-along gown, including the <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2014/01/hsf-25-one-metre.html">linen neckerchief</a> I made ages ago, and <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2014/07/in-mail.html">the mitts</a> that <a href="https://fashionthroughhistory.com/">Asa (Fashion Through History)</a> had made for me. I felt pretty amazing :D I was also very comfortable! The only time I felt overly warm was when I'd gone into an area that wasn't as well-air-conditioned as some of the rooms, and that lasted all of 20 minutes. The curtain-along host, <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com">Jen Thompson</a>, found me in the afternoon, and as I walked out of a room, someone said "there's another one of you 5 meters that way" but I never found them while we were dressed in the same fabric. (There was actually two others! One can be seen <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BXQgN8dAXn165kyw5LODi3Bdj6_A2a5_z3_jmo0/">here on Jen's Instagram</a>, and the other <a href="http://blog.americanduchess.com/2017/08/costume-college-2017.html">here on American Duchess</a>.)<br />
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I found some trim in the marketplace that was perfect for the trimming I had in mind for the IKEA gown, right around the time I was going to go upstairs and get undressed for a couple hours anyway, so I spent another happy and slightly rushed couple hours attaching it and chatting with my other roommate while she got ready for the gala. I went for dinner with a beautifully costumed group of people (omg they looked so amazing) and then we went back for the gala. I mostly stood in the hallway with one of my travelling companions, just admiring everyone, who all looked amazing. I can't even begin to describe the amount of amazingness in that room. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcbyp2q_yB5sP4BaXmGoXYpI1Ayv0Y5Ad1mIv_YAFkacWr-RBxex35jEtG2nWnbmM6zGK4locS685H4QxJjLo3pkLg8FdokMzxL6h9zxVdCVF9knCK1t4w8EpaejMfGEil8Jqk0IuKq80/s1600/20170729_210602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcbyp2q_yB5sP4BaXmGoXYpI1Ayv0Y5Ad1mIv_YAFkacWr-RBxex35jEtG2nWnbmM6zGK4locS685H4QxJjLo3pkLg8FdokMzxL6h9zxVdCVF9knCK1t4w8EpaejMfGEil8Jqk0IuKq80/s320/20170729_210602.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a><br />
The finished IKEA gown!</div><br />
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKKRYahkcr/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BXKKRYahkcr/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">The #yegsewistinla contigent at #costumecollege2017 😁 love these ladies!</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-07-30T05:20:28+00:00">Jul 29, 2017 at 10:20pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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On Sunday I wore a teagown. I wore leggings and a camisole, no corset, and one petticoat, and was ridiculously comfortable all day. Except -- I was also cold! When I went up to my room for lunch, I also retrieved that shawl that I had brought but hadn't expected to need. I also had my last limited class, reverse applique sewing with <a href="http://theladydetalle.blogspot.ca/">The Lady Detalle</a>. Before it started, I had a last burst of anxiety that my handsewing skills wouldn't be up to the task, but it was just fine :) I got pretty far, but I started with an easy template, a "C". <br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BXMKL3yBOTq/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BXMKL3yBOTq/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">#ootd #costumecollege2017 #victorian #trulyvictorian #teagown</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-07-30T23:58:12+00:00">Jul 30, 2017 at 4:58pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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On Monday, we piled into the bus to head to the garment district. It was AH-MAZING. Many people had told me to go to Home Fabrics for silk, and they were not joking. The whole store was just incredible, racks and racks and racks of gorgeous fabric, and on two floors. I made a purchase that we left with the bus, and then went to explore with a small group (we totaled 7). At one point we split up, and I went to the millinery store, where I got 20 yards of bonnet straw and a cute little tricorn hat, and at another store I picked up some large hook and eyes to use on my eventual riding habit. Then I bought more silk at Home Fabrics, and hit the wall. There was so much to see and look at and try to find, and we only looked at a small portion of stores in one tiny corner of the district! It was really warm too, though it didn't feel as oppressive as it had the day we arrived, and even though I slathered myself in only SPF 30 sunscreen, I didn't burn at all. <br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BXbr8r3hJFo/" data-instgrm-version="8" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BXbr8r3hJFo/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">My beautiful #silk fabrics (and one poly, maybe 2) from #costumecollege2017 😍</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/totchipanda/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank"> totchipanda</a> (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-08-06T00:41:50+00:00">Aug 5, 2017 at 5:41pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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Our trip home on Tuesday was delayed by several hours, so we got the dubious pleasure of spending 6 or 7 hours in LAX, but even that was not enough to dampen the amazing weekend we had at Costume College, and we spent a lot of time planning for next year. I can hardly wait!<br />
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Plus we got to see this enormous airplane!:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUokqiegn9LCH3bVSNHydThPSfcO8RXWQoel9pDpc_U56BGY99sPb-21XWm0NtVjrpfIwh8v4pbJXPQpryHIKDxHhwENovmU9iaYPwakhmb3YfeQ9dZaobsvyR-4vWUJaW_uJjNCDxuTQ/s1600/20170801_131822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUokqiegn9LCH3bVSNHydThPSfcO8RXWQoel9pDpc_U56BGY99sPb-21XWm0NtVjrpfIwh8v4pbJXPQpryHIKDxHhwENovmU9iaYPwakhmb3YfeQ9dZaobsvyR-4vWUJaW_uJjNCDxuTQ/s320/20170801_131822.jpg" width="320" height="180" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="900" /></a></div><br />
I am so grateful for the people I went with and the people I met, and especially the people who went out of their way to keep me company at various points throughout the weekend. I hope I didn't impose on you all too much. I had such a wonderful weekend, anxiety and all, and it was your amazingness that made it amazing!Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-90057244550377324042017-08-24T20:52:00.000-06:002017-08-24T20:52:35.550-06:00HSM '15 #6: Out of Your Comfort Zone:1840's Dress, Part 3<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2015/06/hsm-15-6-out-of-your-comfort-zone-1840s.html">Part One (Introduction)</a>, <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2015/06/1840s-dress-part-2.html">Part Two (Bodice and partial sleeves)</a><br />
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<i>December 2015</i><br />
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Well friends, I did finish my dress in time for the challenge it was made for, aside from closures. I started to put them on and then my thread simply would not behave and tangled constantly, no matter how much I waxed it. So I put them on a bit later. I still have to make the thread loops for the sleeve buttons and attach them, and I also want to remove the skirt and reattach it on a band like the instructions say to, as it's sliiiightly too long where it is, attached to the bottom of the bodice. It sat on my dress form for months, because it was too hot all summer to put it on!<br />
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<b><i>August 24, 2017</i></b><br />
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When Costume College was starting to approach at a much faster rate than it seemed in November, I knew I wanted to bring this gown with me. It was nearly finished! I only needed a waist closure, sleeve buttons, and to hopefully fix the skirt (as above, remove it from the edge of the waist, attach it to a band, and reattach it behind). I know I was anxious when I decided to do it, though I can't remember the exact date. I sat down with Riverdale on Netflix and a seam ripper, and started to go. It took a long time to pull it out, but pull it out I did, and reattached it to a bit of twill tape that had once been a drawstring in a hoody. I had almost thrown it out, but realized in time that it was a great bit of twill tape! <br />
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Once it was back on, it still seemed a bit long, but I also had no easy way to get into it by myself to check. I decided to leave it alone, and it came with me to Costume College. Once there, I attached a skirt hook and bar, the vintage glass buttons for the sleeves, and thread loops. I hated the loops immediately and cut them off, and attached hook and eyes under the button instead. Then I prayed it would all come together.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfK5V2OoB_l73TC3Fz3Km_T5fc3ub_Dt7mOe1fIJtEb6ZbsRUbcmcsWyyxD6suRfaWCDYyt92ROV7uraHNqMKLjZA43V8VSu7e4fLHeELvoalXd04F3mciCP4PkPLdPdP9aOSqWRO19Dc/s1600/20170728_160553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfK5V2OoB_l73TC3Fz3Km_T5fc3ub_Dt7mOe1fIJtEb6ZbsRUbcmcsWyyxD6suRfaWCDYyt92ROV7uraHNqMKLjZA43V8VSu7e4fLHeELvoalXd04F3mciCP4PkPLdPdP9aOSqWRO19Dc/s320/20170728_160553.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
And it did! I wore a pair of modern heels with this, not more than 2" (they are my regular shoes for my old lady feet!), the corded petticoat (unstarched), and two 18th century petticoats - one chambray, one poly taffeta. The hem barely skimmed the floor. And it was just lovely. The shape was nice and soft, I loved the feeling of all my skirts swinging around my legs, and I got a lot of lovely compliments on it :D Most people were intrigued by the asymmetrical pleating over the bodice. My knitted pineapple reticule was the perfect accessory, and I got a lot of compliments on it too.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGitZi20RlRWmyWUmyF-47Vn2AIZhj_nf-TSqM8y3MmHqJoIoDGYK_rJmd55piZXddcdldZIVB80W9_5SNDVNEJj3EyIRqRgbyWQ_x0FuWeM375o2euu0XU7X-lVlpu8bgZH4M5i-rU08/s1600/20170728_160543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGitZi20RlRWmyWUmyF-47Vn2AIZhj_nf-TSqM8y3MmHqJoIoDGYK_rJmd55piZXddcdldZIVB80W9_5SNDVNEJj3EyIRqRgbyWQ_x0FuWeM375o2euu0XU7X-lVlpu8bgZH4M5i-rU08/s320/20170728_160543.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a></div><br />
Perhaps the best compliment I received was when Jennifer Rosbrugh of<a href="http://historicalsewing.com/"> Historical Sewing</a> spotted me in the lobby, and I spotted her spotting me, and we had a lovely conversation about the construction of the dress (tiny fangirl squeeing -- I used her <a href="http://historicalsewing.com/how-to-sew-cartridge-pleats">cartridge pleating tutorial</a> when I did up the skirt!)<br />
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This dress was time-consuming, and the result is lovely. The only changes I made were to shorten the skirt a few inches (that I would have cut off anyway) and to move the shoulder seam towards the back. The only other thing I would change would be to get a little chemisette together to fill in the neckline, and to either balance the skirt differently so it doesn't gap at the back, or move the back closures to eliminate that.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaz1pU6tAqCuVe9YiJgztXd2rxNYP1bRxqy9p-ZRlZXsDtwYc9apPfnP5HYyzwg0z5ZvFgVpMjzPxSKVbXYNwV3q2jAEDjzaA2JbTqQhEYnrJf9XeJXdf5CvibFyZIkMrjRyZNfiqBg9I/s1600/20170728_160618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaz1pU6tAqCuVe9YiJgztXd2rxNYP1bRxqy9p-ZRlZXsDtwYc9apPfnP5HYyzwg0z5ZvFgVpMjzPxSKVbXYNwV3q2jAEDjzaA2JbTqQhEYnrJf9XeJXdf5CvibFyZIkMrjRyZNfiqBg9I/s320/20170728_160618.jpg" width="180" height="320" data-original-width="900" data-original-height="1600" /></a><br />
<p><i>Lumpy butt brought to you by my partner-in-crime trying to hide the gapping at the skirt.</i></div><br />
<b>The Challenge:</b> 2015 #6: Out of Your Comfort Zone<br />
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<b>Material:</b> Cottons for gown and lining/facings<br />
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<b>Pattern:</b> <a href="https://butterick.mccall.com/b5832">Butterick 5832</a><br />
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<b>Year:</b> 1835-1840 <a href="http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1349133">(as per extant garment)</a> (<i>Thanks to Liz who found it!</i>)<br />
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<b>Notions:</b> thread, hook & eye, vintage glass buttons, a bit of plastic boning, a scrap of poly taffeta and cotton yarn<br />
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<b>How historically accurate is it?:</b> Reasonably? I machined a lot of what wouldn't be visible, materials are plausible (except for the obvious man-made ones, and hand-finished anything that would show on the outside. <br />
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<b>Hours to complete:</b> I lost count. A lot. The sleeves had to be mostly hand sewn, I remember spending almost a week on them.<br />
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<b>First worn:</b> July 28, 2017 (Friday of Costume College)<br />
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<b>Total cost:</b> Dress fabric was from my mum's stash, taffeta was a remnant scrap, yarn was from my aunt's stash, glass buttons were salvaged from a long-ago garment by my gramma. Hooks & eyes, and the cotton broadcloth I used as lining/hem facing cost roughly $4 Cdn. To buy all new, I would expect to spend $80-100 Cdn. Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-43967926105677297902017-07-16T09:19:00.000-06:002017-07-16T09:19:23.349-06:00Road to Costume College 2017I mentioned earlier this year that I got a steal on a seat sale, so I am headed to Costume College in LA in just over a week! Alas, I am not able to complete my Big Project, namely due to lack of appropriate hooping materials. I thought I would still work on the skirt while I waited for the right materials, but while I KNOW I pulled it out of the UFO box, I can't find it (and this was months ago, and I STILL can't find it), so I've put it aside for now. <br />
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But I've come up with new plans and have finally gotten them going. I'll do a more detailed write-up (I hope) later, but for now, please enjoy my Instagram photos :)<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="7" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BWY3HimhWrX/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Finally punched my stays in the right channel and got a proper try-on! Its post dinner and still really comfy! #stays #18thcentury #yegsew</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by totchipanda (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-07-11T01:50:19+00:00">Jul 10, 2017 at 6:50pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
The first time I made these stays, I punched the grommet holes in the CF boning channel, and I used to punch upside down which destroyed the grommets. Had to cut new fronts and do it over... <br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="7" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BTA0lNuhBh5/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Saturday's effort was the printed petticoat, and tonight's was the white one. Love how these two look together! #petticoats #1780s #ikea #duvetcover #perfectprint #bedsheetdress #yegsew #roadtococo #costumecollege2017</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by totchipanda (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-04-18T04:12:12+00:00">Apr 17, 2017 at 9:12pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
I made this pair of petticoats back in April. The taffeta one definitely needs a ruffle, and the floral one still needs a hem :) (and maybe a ruffle)<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="7" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BWlhtQHBijI/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">😍😍😍 my fingers are so sore and the lighting and background are terrible BUT... I got out all the layers and dressed up Josephine and i am IN LOVE. cant wait to try this gorgeous thing on myself! #18thcentury #handsewn #duvetcover #roadtococo #hotdamn</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by totchipanda (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-07-15T23:53:21+00:00">Jul 15, 2017 at 4:53pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
After finishing the stays (erm, for various values of "finishing"), I've spent all of my spare time this past week working on this gorgeous thing! It was finally ready to put all together so I could see how it's looking, and it looks AMAZING. It still needs some work but my fingers need a break!<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="7" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BWDTMdJB9Vt/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">#teagown is done! It just needs trimming and im still undecided on darts lol #finished #victorian #yegsew</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by totchipanda (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-07-02T16:52:22+00:00">Jul 2, 2017 at 9:52am PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
I also made a tea gown for lazy Sunday wear :) I'm debating putting darts in - without them, they fit my non-corseted body perfectly. <br />
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If you're going to Costume College, let's meet up! I'd love to see you in person! (And if you see me, please say hi! I'll try to do the same :) )Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-57723991720816559542017-04-21T20:00:00.001-06:002017-04-21T20:00:20.920-06:00Wool-gatheringThis is going to be a personal sort of post, so do please feel free to skip. <br />
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I mentioned in previous posts that I've been struggling with anxiety for the last little while, and that I've been working with pros to manage it. And I am -- since my last post I've been seeing a specialist in the type of techniques my doctor recommended, and I have made a lot of progress. After crying most of my body weight in tears, of course, because anxiety is hard, admitting you need help is hard, finding and reaching out and accepting help is hard, and then doing all the work is HARD! But I also know that I can no longer struggle along on my own, and I also cannot put the burden of my many anxiety-monsters on my loved ones. They love me and support me and let me know that of course I can lean on them -- and I do, but with the fact that the work is hard, not the burden of helping me do the work.<br />
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One of the things I struggle the most with is something I call "the but whyyyyys" (you have to draw the whyyyyyyy out, it's important to mimic that annoying sort of "but I don't WANNA" toddlers have), and I know for a fact that many of you, nebulous readers, do too. Jennifer Rosbrugh of <a href="http://historicalsewing.com/">HistoricalSewing.com</a> recently shared <a href="http://historicalsewing.com/cant-make-that-no-place-to-wear-it">this article she wrote in 2013</a> on her Facebook page, and the timing was very handy. Some of the loudest "but whyyyyys" is that I have nowhere to wear the pieces I create, I have so little drive to wear them despite that, and no desire to sew pieces for other people, that why do I even bother with sewing costumes at all? What is the point of having fabric and dreaming about outfits and rarely creating them with these other factors? I've been arguing with myself for over a year, consciously, about that, and the only answer I can come up with is: Because I want to. I WANT to, and that's enough to DO. <br />
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There's so many little voices like that that chip away at my confidence. When I can successfully push past them, I am so pleased with my creations, and maybe equally pleased with the fact that <i>I did it.</I> I quieted the But Whyyyys enough and just CREATED, and it was an amazing feeling. But they always creep back in. And that's how I end up not making anything, or making something so late that I'm still sewing late into the night the day before I want to wear it. I have such a myriad of projects I want to work on that when I argue with the But Whyyyyys, I get paralysed with indecision and end up doing nothing.<br />
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I talked about this recently with my therapist, and she asked if I had a blog. I do -- hi! I've missed you. Writing is another creative outfit I don't indulge in as much as I would want to (they are their own set of But Whyyyyys that we haven't poked at yet), and that's part of why I wanted to write this post. I have been working -- slowly. The beginning of the year was, frankly, kind of terrible. I sometimes feel bad for saying that, when my brand of "terrible" is not as bad as it could be, has been, or IS for some people. But it is my reality, and it is terrible. The bad news of the world (so... much... bad... news...), working on my anxiety (you guys, it's really hard -- did you know you can hold anxiety in different parts of your body? I hold mine in my hands, which may tie into why they But Whyyyyys have so much traction), my cat's health (thankfully his diabetes is in remission! But I still think of him as a diabetic cat and am trying to maintain routines), the fact that somehow I became really really busy? I was measuring my free time in blocks of 2 hours or less. I did not enjoy it. When everything came to a head at the end of March and it was all over, I was so profoundly relieved. Maybe I could reclaim some sewing time, a big fluffy Victorian gown is not going to sew itself!<br />
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But then my work-life took a vastly different direction in a very, very short period of time and threw my brain into disarray again. We are talking a period of 4-48 hours, as the crow flies. I am happy to say that I've taken on a new role at my workplace, which I am excited to do, and the changes to my routine are minimal. <br />
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But the Victorian gown as I envisioned it is probably not happening. I couldn't get my chosen hooping material to work, and I am currently unable to get my second choice. What I wanted to work on more than anything was not what I "should" be working on, so I eventually called it quits and just started working on it. I've almost completed two petticoats so far:<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="7" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BTA0lNuhBh5/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Saturday's effort was the printed petticoat, and tonight's was the white one. Love how these two look together! #petticoats #1780s #ikea #duvetcover #perfectprint #bedsheetdress #yegsew #roadtococo #costumecollege2017</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by totchipanda (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-04-18T04:12:12+00:00">Apr 17, 2017 at 9:12pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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They just need hems and trims! Good work, me :) <br />
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I also spent some time last week going over my Costume College registration packet and deciding on the classes I wanted to apply for, a couple of which will dictate my costume choices. I have some new plans to put into place.<br />
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And course I also need to somehow get along with the But Whyyyyys. Silencing them doesn't work, but perhaps listening to them will. Not actioning, just listening. Right now they're trying the "maybe you should just drop out of costuming entirely" tactic, and I did listen for a few minutes before thinking "wait a minute!" So many things are hard in life, that are also worth the rewards. And this... this I daresay is one of them.Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-52941439962336476482017-02-01T21:40:00.002-07:002017-02-01T21:40:53.876-07:00HSM '17: #1 Firsts & Lasts: Mid-Victorian Chemise & DrawersAs part of my Big Project this year, I knew I needed to start from the skin out (except for <a href="http://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2014/05/adventures-in-corsetry-real-thing-via.html">the corset</a>), so obviously it would be a chemise right off the bat. My Big Project is aimed to have a date of 1867 (ish), and I have never heard of pre-bustle-era combinations*, so separate chemise and drawers were in order.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxxSmudaacF8ZoQIukfVeMqHhWsDFPbqb112Mo37WcFbxtrXIUFGHuAZWhSAg841zM2JW-Vn-5hVJy6ZFQ2nZXoZJkV_3zrX0uvLMhMSK5GGUPbqLhwZ7shw8qHYv7cmkewqCF5ABHzw/s1600/20170201_204948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxxSmudaacF8ZoQIukfVeMqHhWsDFPbqb112Mo37WcFbxtrXIUFGHuAZWhSAg841zM2JW-Vn-5hVJy6ZFQ2nZXoZJkV_3zrX0uvLMhMSK5GGUPbqLhwZ7shw8qHYv7cmkewqCF5ABHzw/s320/20170201_204948.jpg" width="180" height="320" /></a></div><br />
*Are they out there? I didn't (and haven't) look, either. I knew I would get too bogged down in "research" to actually start sewing, which does not fit into my goal of "sew more" this year!<br />
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Long-time readers will know how much I like to waffle on fabric choices... (Not.) I thought cotton would be the order of the day, given the time frame. But I don't have much in the way of cottons. The only underwear-suitable pieces I have are a 4-yard length of Indian muslin (<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2014/12/2014-year-in-review.html">seen here,</a> on the Regency muslin gown) and a 2-yard length of 3.5oz linen (<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2014/03/hsf14-4-under-it-all-1700s-chemise.html">left over from here</a>). After I had already decided to use the muslin, I did find a few examples at the Met of linen chemises, which is great! But since my selections were so limited, I thought I'd better use the linen to make drawers, as the muslin is SO light, I wasn't sure it would stand up to the kind of use drawers would see. Then I ended up using cotton for the drawers too. Ah well.<br />
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Then I just had to sit down, pin it out and cut my fabric. Terrifying! Aside from a few creases where it had been folded up since September 2014, it was fine, and it was a dream to sew. I did most of the long seams and interior work by machine (on my 1956 straight-stitch Singer, Beatrice; a straight-stitch machine would have been unlikely but not impossible), but all of the stitching that would carry to the outside of the fabric was done by hand. <br />
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<center><blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="7" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:62.5% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BO-xG5mj47-/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">My new #chemise is soooo #sheer! Its gonna be great for summer! #victorian #sewing #historical #yegsew</a></p><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A photo posted by totchipanda (@totchipanda) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-01-07T22:57:47+00:00">Jan 7, 2017 at 2:57pm PST</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script></center><br />
There's only a couple things I would change. I used <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-pattern-2890-misses-costumes/2890.html">Simplicity 2890</a>, the same pattern I used for <a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2014/05/adventures-in-corsetry-real-thing-via.html">my corset</a>, and for the drawers. Very similar items are found to be drafted in <i>Fashions of the Gilded Age Vol 1</i>, which are taken from period sources, so I took some of the headache out by using a commercial pattern. But I forgot the Golden Rule -- measure measure measure!! I cut a size 14, and only realized too late that it was MUCH too big. I shortened the back yokes to a 10, but I had already sewn the fronts and trimmed the seams. I had to try and make those work. The other thing I would change is to stitch the side seams and flat-fell them, and then cut the armhole facings as a single piece, front and back, press the edges under and attach it by hand. I'm reasonably sure that this is a feature that would make changing the facings easy, but the pattern has you attach a facing to each side and then stitch and fell it into the side seam. This made the sewing of the sleeve and sides easier, but makes it impractical to changing the facing out should it be needed, and creates bulk on the seam. My fabric is VERY light, and the seam is bulky. I would not want to attempt it with heavier fabric.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6QcRhcwG0N4-8XHUWUJ2w0m9E1UOD30LTjzDgDUDGeECH2-3rpyaTGqWBtzJHEbkn-muCFtCSjKh7OpDH_TUUmRubhyphenhyphen2YFUS0I1IKuIZZRi1fA5GWlRP7cFNjSTqxuiqto9L4KIT644/s1600/20170107_103422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6QcRhcwG0N4-8XHUWUJ2w0m9E1UOD30LTjzDgDUDGeECH2-3rpyaTGqWBtzJHEbkn-muCFtCSjKh7OpDH_TUUmRubhyphenhyphen2YFUS0I1IKuIZZRi1fA5GWlRP7cFNjSTqxuiqto9L4KIT644/s320/20170107_103422.jpg" width="180" height="320" /></a></div><br />
Finally, I sat down with a cup of tea and a documentary about volcanoes, and got my hem stitched. The final touch was a button. It's decorative, though one could possibly make it a functional feature. I got out my Gramma's button bin and searched the trays for a nice button that was either a lonesome, or one of only a few. I found this metal-shanked glass button -- probably not very period, but very lovely in its own way. <br />
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And that's it! I won't be taking any pictures of me wearing it without either something underneath or the other bits on top, it's sooooo sheer. But it's also super light, and that will be great for summer :)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJEhC0b07VbBQPaQY0kY9OxmIJJcdEZrMgFburgGNCfrQBmpJi1RBuCsBZT7LQwgAV3F7I4-Y-jPW2tNio6usojSrZT7LtDsC33nU1kWfslezBtqh-ltSrafa30kDl0Lnd4RtsNQHxrCs/s1600/20170201_205038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJEhC0b07VbBQPaQY0kY9OxmIJJcdEZrMgFburgGNCfrQBmpJi1RBuCsBZT7LQwgAV3F7I4-Y-jPW2tNio6usojSrZT7LtDsC33nU1kWfslezBtqh-ltSrafa30kDl0Lnd4RtsNQHxrCs/s320/20170201_205038.jpg" width="180" height="320" /></a></div><br />
The drawers were fairly straightforward, though the hem directions didn't make a lot of sense. Making the pintucks was pretty easy, as the way it's stitched you can use the last pintuck as a guide for the next one. I seamed the legs first before doing the open crotch seams, turning the seam allowances to the outside as per <a href="http://www.thesewingacademy.com/compendium/">Elizabeth Stewart Clark's guide for making drawers</a>. I probably should have followed those directions for making a waistband, the one included with the Simplicity pattern is very tight on me. But I also haven't tried it on in the morning, and my one test with a corset just blended all of the compression around my waist together. I will have to give them a test run before too long! I pulled the fabric out as an option for making the cage hoop with, but I went with a different fabric, and I also like the idea of fun underwear :) My undies won't see the same extensive use as historical ones, so I felt comfortable going with this. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiOsC6uSFyPX6s3Ikq1jJbEmOYsE497PcDx2vuwZF9DMsoOzmZI1LH-HzpkZQEoi-MTZ6SPLbDTkNFKTkyO0iRl7oL-YxmsCLsn3t6aPgSLLYSEkAPWAgq0Tr0cVKqKSIQrBAI4BeB2KU/s1600/20170201_205111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiOsC6uSFyPX6s3Ikq1jJbEmOYsE497PcDx2vuwZF9DMsoOzmZI1LH-HzpkZQEoi-MTZ6SPLbDTkNFKTkyO0iRl7oL-YxmsCLsn3t6aPgSLLYSEkAPWAgq0Tr0cVKqKSIQrBAI4BeB2KU/s320/20170201_205111.jpg" width="180" height="320" /></a></div><br />
The last thing needed was a button -- this plastic lonesome from the bin -- and a buttonhole, which I opted to work by hand. It was my very first one ever! I used upholstery thread and embroidery floss. The brown mark is from the Frixion pen I used to mark the hole placement, it will come out easily :)<br />
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<b>The Challenge:</b> #1 Firsts & Lasts<br />
<b>Fabric/Materials:</b> 100% cottons<br />
<b>Pattern:</b> Simplicity 2890, drawers with some guidance from the Sewing Academy<br />
<b>Year:</b> 1860s<br />
<b>Notions: </b>thread, buttons, lace<br />
<b>How historically accurate is it?</b> The patterns are taken from extant garments, the fabrics are plausible. The threads are a mix of poly and cotton. Most of the stitching was done on my 1956 straight-stitch-only Singer (Beatrice), which is not overly likely but not impossible either.<br />
<b>Hours to complete:</b> 10<br />
<b>First worn:</b> Not yet!<br />
<b>Total cost:</b> The muslin was left over from another project but cost me $5 US / yard, and I used 3 yards. The cotton for the drawers was free-to-me but new material would cost upwards of $10-$20 depending on sales. Perhaps $40-$50 for a new project.Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-53581344016849565732017-01-29T20:44:00.000-07:002017-01-29T20:44:23.425-07:00HSF '14 #9: White: Japanese Hakama* and Tabi socks(*as opposed to other kinds of hakama? I don't know)<br />
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For once, I didn't have grand plans for this challenge. I knew I was making this cosplay in February (0f 2014), and yet I put it off and put it off, and then next thing I know it's May and I had about 2 weeks before it needed to be done. For a moment I panicked over what to make for the challenge that would be easy to make alongside the costume, and then realized that one major component of the costume was white, and also very historical. I can submit it for the challenge! Awesome!<br />
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Admittedly I didn't do a lot of research. In my younger days, I did a lot more reading and spent an embarrassing-to-admit amount of time steeped in Japanese culture from a great distance, and absorbed a lot of information through a variety of sources. Hakama have been used in Japan for probably centuries. They started as a skirt-like garment that at some point gained split legs for horse-riding. They are basically 8 panels of fabric woven 14" or so wide, folded back and pleated to a much smaller waist measurement and attached to long bands that tie around the waist. At some point in semi-recent history, the back gained a stiffened board. My costume is based on an anime series that is set in 1867, so I also set out to recreate the look, if not a strictly historical garment.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETcLyB09qsaMdgKMpsM55VSGsnikGMwGDVDVUgszPy6tRwC5RRBfW9RtCJEkA_Vnj8qqOECOAdv7St-YauqpPOUqMYxKKDBXU13oV29RzIwvgrQzBgaYjro_jP4TlK-IjnGJ3QZsERc0/s1600/chizuru_447277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgETcLyB09qsaMdgKMpsM55VSGsnikGMwGDVDVUgszPy6tRwC5RRBfW9RtCJEkA_Vnj8qqOECOAdv7St-YauqpPOUqMYxKKDBXU13oV29RzIwvgrQzBgaYjro_jP4TlK-IjnGJ3QZsERc0/s320/chizuru_447277.jpg" width="207" height="320" /></a><br />
Bottom right. Image ©Idea Factory<br />
</div><br />
Made of heavy white cotton twill, the front has six pleats, the innermost two stacked to look like one. I had to play with the back pleats, two stacked to look like one, for HOURS trying to get the visible pleat in the center and also make the back a narrow enough width. I started out with it at 15" (too big), got it down to 9" (too small), and finally finished at 13" (just right).<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr+JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgMhCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YYXFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhLw7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zzgKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nYFnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://instagram.com/p/oCpKr-uhzs/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_top">A photo posted by Crystal Yoner (@totchipanda)</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2014-05-16T02:40:59+00:00">May 5, 2014 at 7:40pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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<b>2017 Update:</b> Somehow, three years and three wears later, I still haven't managed to get any pictures of this costume! It's RIDICULOUSLY comfortable, the hakama are like wearing a skirt, full and airy about the legs, but still split for the comfort of pants. I have a post about the full costume upcoming!<br />
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<b>The Challenge:</b>#9 Black & White<br />
<b>Fabric:</b> 100% cotton twill<br />
<b>Pattern:</b> self-drafted, with guides from <a href="http://andsewingishalfthebattle.com/how-to-make-historically-accurate-authentic-hakama/">And Sewing is Half the Battle</a> (English) and <a href="http://yousai.net/nui/hakama/hakama.htm">Yousai.net</a> (Japanese, lots of pictures)<br />
<b>Year:</b> 1867<br />
<b>Notions:</b> thread, interfacing for the back board<br />
<b>How historically accurate is it?:</b> Reasonably.<br />
<b>Hours to complete:</b> 14 or so (more than one went into the back pleats...)<br />
<b>First worn:</b> May 2014<br />
<b>Total cost:</b> $40<br />
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<b>Tabi Socks</b><br />
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I wasn't sure about the tabi socks; I thought for SURE I'd end up sewing a small U into a pair of modern socks to get the split-toe look. You can get two kinds of tabi in Japan - traditional non-stretchy socks that close up the back with flat hooks, or stretchy knit ones with a separate toe. But I finished the main part of the costume with a few days to spare, so I took the pattern in <a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Make-Your-Own-Japanese-Clothes/dp/1568364938"><i>Make Your Own Japanese Clothes</i></a> and enlarged it as per the directions, and made up a quick pair in a light cotton. They could probably use some tweaking in terms of fit, but they were satisfactory enough for a cosplay that I went ahead to make the final pair. They are made of a lighter twill from my stash with the heavier twill sole cut from the hakama fabric, and lined with the same fabric I used for the yukata. The fabrics were all scraps from other projects, making this a very economical project.<br />
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"><div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"><div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr+JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgMhCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YYXFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhLw7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zzgKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nYFnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://instagram.com/p/oCopxwuhy_/" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_top">A photo posted by Crystal Yoner (@totchipanda)</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2014-05-16T02:36:30+00:00">May 5, 2014 at 7:36pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script><br />
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<b>2017 Update:</b> I've never worn the socks with the costume. Both cons I wore this to, they are summer cons. By the time I get everything on, including a wig, my feet being covered by socks is the last thing I wanted to experience. <br />
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<b>The Challenge:</b> #9 Black & White<br />
<b>Fabric:</b> 100% cottons<br />
<b>Pattern:</b> <i>Make Your Own Japanese Clothes</i><br />
<b>Year:</b> 1867 (ish -- very big ish)<br />
<b>Notions:</b> thread, a bit of Velcro<br />
<b>How historically accurate is it?:</b> Not really sure, I think these would not look out of place in history, but they're pretty modern otherwise.<br />
<b>Hours to complete:</b> 2<br />
<b>First worn:</b> Never<br />
<b>Total cost:</b> Free! Cut from scraps from the hakama and yukata :) Very little fabric is needed, so new materials would be minor in cost.Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-70599531440592565052017-01-25T21:28:00.003-07:002017-01-25T21:28:59.044-07:00HSF '13 #18: Re-make, Re-Use, & Re-fashion: The Inspiration<i>Part of my 2017 goals that I didn't mention was that I want to clear out my backlog of posts! There aren't a great many, but my draft folder is taunting me. Here is the first.</i><br />
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<b>Summer, 2013</b><br />
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<a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/06/the-hsf-challenge-18-re-make-re-use-re-fashion/">The Historical Fortnightly's 18th challenge is due on September 9</a>. This one of the only challenges I knew exactly what I wanted to do, and possibly the first one that might be done on time. <i>(hahaha that didn't happen!)</i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQtkWmhzZgUnWMZPNwqWG8GxzJfHwS-KtFX20UCZIwwaTO4nnz6RD4NfIDkOkAMVLMBXycA8ZESjGjk8KoELTE7mpeBiWurifqtEJR4OQQa4IFtF2goKzNoJBQEHWEmn9kjiTj5IgScRY/s1600/goldgown1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQtkWmhzZgUnWMZPNwqWG8GxzJfHwS-KtFX20UCZIwwaTO4nnz6RD4NfIDkOkAMVLMBXycA8ZESjGjk8KoELTE7mpeBiWurifqtEJR4OQQa4IFtF2goKzNoJBQEHWEmn9kjiTj5IgScRY/s320/goldgown1.jpg" width="141" height="320" /></a></div><br />
Some <strike>8</strike> 12 years ago, when I began to express interest in making and wearing Victorian clothing, my mom gave me this gown. She'd made it in the late 80's or very very early 90s (certainly prior to 1991) and had never worn it herself, or only worn it a couple of times. She commented that she'd made a bustle pad to wear with it; I remember the pad very well, as it made an excellent pillow that my siblings and I all fought over the chance to nap on it. She gave it to me with the hope that it would fit me, or if not, that I could remake it so that it would.<br />
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It didn't fit me. I've gained weight since then, and it still doesn't fit me. I had only been seriously sewing for a couple of years at that point, and I had no faith at all in my ability to alter it so it would fit me. Now, nearly 14 years and several outfits later, I think I can do it. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwcMJpNkFO4mYxCZ7PEGoKv7hqvkksUI6SwjIGCucbng2AEO96m9uNRXBD_6fuZcMKboxGuHA6JuZvieHzyV65Thv_hyphenhyphenSW3Euh4JByofzA8pbC9Igsv8ohetfXT9BNSHj3RM_igM_wJcs/s1600/goldgown2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwcMJpNkFO4mYxCZ7PEGoKv7hqvkksUI6SwjIGCucbng2AEO96m9uNRXBD_6fuZcMKboxGuHA6JuZvieHzyV65Thv_hyphenhyphenSW3Euh4JByofzA8pbC9Igsv8ohetfXT9BNSHj3RM_igM_wJcs/s320/goldgown2.jpg" width="133" height="320" /></a></div><br />
I'm not really sure what to do with it, though. There's something about it that's so quintessentially '80s. The jacket is made from a thin poly lining, and what I'm pretty sure is poly "silk". The skirt is the same poly "silk". The skirt's overlayers and the jacket's "blouse" are embroidered net over lining. It was hard to photograph, but the back part of the skirt's overlayers had two layers of net/lining. I don't know what pattern was used, if any. My mom is a much better patternist than I. The shoulder seams are placed squarely on top of the shoulder, and not behind as was period. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgavJQ8_pX6pQ6tcE5xzwMt0QFenTwGiva6hOAgzztFNHWSxzfW6c2_uo3GT3j5ZVUO-jHPGSlNAwPcbveXdd6F7ret1DnP9yEE7TymIydj00telibLYUG8wgeAPivHGNUJob7AIBNHhzI/s1600/goldgown3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgavJQ8_pX6pQ6tcE5xzwMt0QFenTwGiva6hOAgzztFNHWSxzfW6c2_uo3GT3j5ZVUO-jHPGSlNAwPcbveXdd6F7ret1DnP9yEE7TymIydj00telibLYUG8wgeAPivHGNUJob7AIBNHhzI/s320/goldgown3.jpg" width="320" height="304" /></a></div><br />
After I ripped it apart, the skirt was made from a continuous loop of fabric, gathered along one selvedge, giving me a large 4 yard piece. When I thought about it a little more, I remembered some dresses from <i>The Voice of Fashion</i> and <i>Edwardian Modiste</i> that have lace or net overlays on bodices. If I use the lining material as the basis for the dress, the "silk" for the outer dress, and some of the net as an overlay, I could probably get a lovely gown out of it :)<br />
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<b>2017 Update:</b> I'm not sure where the fabrics from this dress ended up when I moved in November 2013, and I still don't have a solid plan. I'm pretty sure I didn't keep the bodice as trying to recut it and account for the shoulder seams was too much work, though a part of me regrets that decision. I could have used the smaller pieces for something, surely! The other part of me is yelling to declutter and good riddance! It's a struggle sometimes...Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-24470422153500507942017-01-02T19:11:00.000-07:002017-01-02T19:11:08.109-07:00Looking ForwardLast year I didn't write or post a "this is what I want to accomplish this year" list. I think I knew somehow that the year was going to be really hard. I struggled a lot with anxiety (A LOT), and I'm still having trouble dealing with it. Don't worry, I'm working with professionals on a game plan :) This year I want to make more time for sewing and things that bring me joy. And it seems that the repetitiveness of certain things help soothe the anxiety (like baking! Making bread is fantastic for working out some tension!) so the rituals surrounding sewing can only be good for me :)<br />
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My biggest project for the year will be an 1867 ballgown to celebrate Canada's 150th anniversary. Luckily a few of the challenges for this year's <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2017/">Historical Sew Monthly</a> line up with that challenge, plus I'd really like to participate for an entire year. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://68.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m91ffcjxwg1qidnqfo1_1280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://68.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m91ffcjxwg1qidnqfo1_1280.jpg" width="238" height="320" /></a><br />
<a href="http://oldrags.tumblr.com/post/30103200773/january-fashions-1867-france-cendrillon">Source: oldrags.tumblr.com</a></div><center>One of my inspiration images!</center><br />
<b>January: Firsts & Lasts:</b> Already started! A mid-1860s chemise :)<br />
<b>February: Re-Make, Re-Use, Re-Fashion:</b> I wonder if the base skirt of my ballgown will count? I sewed it up years ago but now I need to re-make it. Perhaps an elliptical hoop with salvaged boning from a modern hoop skirt.<br />
<b>March: The Great Outdoors:</b> mid-18th century riding habit. Again. IT SHALL BE DONE.<br />
<b>April: Circles, Squares & Rectangles:</b> A petticoat for a 1780s gown or the riding habit skirt, depending. Maybe both!<br />
<b>May: Literature:</b> I'm not sure that I have a favourite historical literary character, but I'm sure I can come up with something. (In general I can't read actual historical fiction. The language norms just bypass my entire brain. I don't know how many times I read one page in <i>Persuasion</i> until I gave up and went on to the next one, but it was definitely more than three.)<br />
<b>June: Metallics:</b> This one will be tricksy D: I haven't got an idea yet. I do have a yard and a half of gilded linen though.<br />
<b>July: Fashion Plate:</b> I have a plan! I need a loooot of red soutache :D I don't know if this will get done, I may be frantically completing outfits for Costume College!<br />
<b>August: Ridiculous:</b> Oh gosh, where can one start?<br />
<b>September: Seen Onscreen:</b> If I am very very lucky, I can pick up some beautiful red silk in LA and recreate <a href="http://s1179.photobucket.com/user/merrymoondancer9/media/costumes/8cd91d86aaa27ee192b5555beec5a727_zps1bc230a1.jpg.html" target="_blank">Caroline's beautiful red dress</a> in the 2005 Pride & Prejudice (say what you will about the movie, <a href="http://pemberley-state-of-mind.tumblr.com/post/72108226963/did-you-keep-the-dialogue-modern-or-keep-with">that dress is stunning</a>!) Failing that, a recreation of Jane's adorable Spencer jacket from <i>Austenland</i>.<br />
<b>October: Out of Your Comfort Zone:</b> There's many things I could do for this one, many things are out of my comfort zone! <br />
<b>November: HSF Inspiration:</b> I really love the idea of this one. And there is a LOT of beautiful pieces made over the last 4 years (almost 5 by the time this rolls around) to choose from. I will probably choose something small, as this is during <a href="http://nanowrimo.org">National Novel Writing Month</a>.<br />
<b>December: Go Wild:</b> I have a bit of beaver pelt rescued from a coat (I think) that I got from my aunt's estate. It's destined for a muff cover.<br />
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I'm also considering addressing my everyday wardrobe. I've been finding some of the things I've had for the last few years are no longer comfortable to wear. But I need to give this some serious thought. I really like vintage styles, but I really don't have the energy or patience to dedicate time to also creating vintage hair and make-up and accessories to go with outfits. I might get there some day, but right now it's enough that I can drag myself out of bed to feed my cat. Plus the added bonus of living in a place with very distinct seasons, necessitating multiple collections. Summer clothes really don't work in winter! I should probably start with looking at capsule wardrobes. This is a relatively low priority though.<br />
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Add in my usual con circuit, plus the additional pieces I need for Costume College, and I should have a very productive year!Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-41216153791920722312016-12-31T19:47:00.000-07:002016-12-31T19:47:02.274-07:002016 Year in ReviewHappy holidays, friends! I love doing the year in review, looking back on the things I made and remembering the pieces I forgot, so here it is! <br />
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There really isn't a lot. This was a very rough year, dealing with my mental and physical health, my cat's health, all the bad news of the world (so... much... bad... news...), struggling to make my budget work, and the death of a beloved aunt. I tried to participate in the Historical Sew Monthly, and I only got to 4 challenges (with some plans for others). I made more things than I blogged about, so here is the complete list.<br />
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<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2016/02/hsm-1-1-procrastination-late-1830s-cap.html">HSM 1: late 1830s cap</a><br />
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<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2016/04/regency-midwinter-ball-2016.html">Regency drop-front gown, petticoat, and vest</a><br />
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Green wool spencer<br />
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<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2016/08/hsm-16-2-tucks-and-pleating-market-hat.html">HSM 2: Market Hat</a><br />
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HSM 4: 1838-1840 Honeycomb Shawl from <i>The Workwoman's Guide</i><br />
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<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2016/08/adventures-in-cosplay-jareth-goblin-king.html">Jareth the Goblin King (Ball) from <i>Labyrinth</i></a><br />
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"Evangeline"<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfX2U1kCdHYF_0q_vF1UIOvlBIrF25OmU__TV8TTM82-yaqxIaoG48qstDsjnNJAUhlbtO8b7em5fEVo15kwa1pDblbhN3zN-l5oV-NZi4onvy_PA_80dNLBVeG8convIWYvd0YGDrr1Y/s1600/13247970_10154055723930155_5240960386351235346_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfX2U1kCdHYF_0q_vF1UIOvlBIrF25OmU__TV8TTM82-yaqxIaoG48qstDsjnNJAUhlbtO8b7em5fEVo15kwa1pDblbhN3zN-l5oV-NZi4onvy_PA_80dNLBVeG8convIWYvd0YGDrr1Y/s320/13247970_10154055723930155_5240960386351235346_o.jpg" width="240" height="320" /></a></div><br />
Blue Natural-form skirt<br />
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Natural Form petticoat<br />
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Fuu from Magic Knight Rayearth<br />
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Photo by Dorothy Tse</div><br />
Scarlet's Cape (plus some work on the shirt)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAMaO6WRCuDPLeDNkWX9Md_iPwkTckckq_QzheACNKt-Uvl22niQ9PlMeWLeNaAAq22c0lPBrDZg0uq3STfgjtSEFVd-xO6PHGn34TeKCSxQ58roNpoBTgfI0-zhn-UoaUi5c8OknVkg/s1600/13913602_1397928223567031_5559965833278530768_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAMaO6WRCuDPLeDNkWX9Md_iPwkTckckq_QzheACNKt-Uvl22niQ9PlMeWLeNaAAq22c0lPBrDZg0uq3STfgjtSEFVd-xO6PHGn34TeKCSxQ58roNpoBTgfI0-zhn-UoaUi5c8OknVkg/s320/13913602_1397928223567031_5559965833278530768_o.jpg" width="320" height="213" /></a></div><br />
Chihiro's Bathhouse uniform from Spirited Away<br />
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Sophie Hatter from Howl's Moving Castle (Unfinished)<br />
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Black Regency drop-front gown (unfinished)<br />
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<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2016/10/houndstooth-miramar-by-scroop-patterns.html">Miramar tunic</a><br />
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<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2016/10/hsm-16-10-historical-heroes-regency.html">HSM 10: 1795 Cotton Open-Robe from <i>Patterns of Fashion</i></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIOYx5wttjNYSm_2GrQPNT0iWokIfnvQWlK3ePs8DHYcx55W711I6BoCmjWEq8X87qGZ60VxylB07aVk1rNQxfqOG8sERtN6MXEUlzfNzBGHIVgVowhleeNGdpO3b81wxuZgDoHfFQjos/s1600/20161022_230224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIOYx5wttjNYSm_2GrQPNT0iWokIfnvQWlK3ePs8DHYcx55W711I6BoCmjWEq8X87qGZ60VxylB07aVk1rNQxfqOG8sERtN6MXEUlzfNzBGHIVgVowhleeNGdpO3b81wxuZgDoHfFQjos/s320/20161022_230224.jpg" width="180" height="320" /></a></div><br />
<a href="https://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2016/11/regency-gown-3-ways-myth-of-perfection.html">Ceinture a la victime</a><br />
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HSM 11: Many-era seamed Stockings<br />
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Summer house-dress<br />
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And of course some yarn-based projects! I made a hood, some mitts, a scarf, slippers, dance socks, a baby blanket, and a hat. I try to keep my <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/totchipanda">Ravelry page</a> up-to-date :)<br />
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I have BIG PLANS to be more productive next year! In early November, my friend <a href="http://nutmegsews.blogspot.ca">NutMeg</a> caught a seat sale and mentioned it in time for Nicole and I (and another friend) to jump on, so I'm going to LA for Costume College!! I'm so excited, I've wanted to go for years! I had already planned to work on a Big Project for Canada's 150th birthday this upcoming year, and it will make a fantastic gala gown too. I have to make pretty much everything from the skin out, so I'm starting the year with underwear :)Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-58342231440481892322016-11-27T20:22:00.000-07:002016-11-27T20:22:20.118-07:00Regency Gown 3 Ways & The Myth of PerfectionEarlier this year I made a white Regency gown out of an IKEA curtain, and accessorized it with a dark green vest for the February ball. <br />
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For the October balls, even though I had started a ballgown some time last year, I decided not to finish it (partly because of a health issue, which I'll get into below, and partly because I was working on the open robe, which was my preferred option to wear) and instead wore my white gown again both days. On the first day I wore with the open robe:<br />
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And on the second day, I made a long red ribbon to wear wrapped around my torso:<br />
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The ribbon was 3 width-of-fabric rips 3" wide. I hemmed each length with the narrow hemmer foot for my machine, which was an exercise in both patience and frustration, and then French-seamed the lengths together. I took inspiration from <a href="http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.ca/2015/07/lesser-known-regency-accessories-hsm-72.html">this post by Cassidy on lesser-known Regency accessories</a>, especially the first one, the <i>Ceinture à la Victime</i>. Family history as told by my maternal grandmother is that one of her distant relatives escaped the Revolution in France, though it was not talked about (even her own grandmother didn't like to speak of it, though she would have been around 100 years removed from it). I don't know if I believe it, but it does make a neat little point in my mind to connect with the past. Nevertheless, the ribbon-wrapping was very prominent for many years beyond the Revolution (see Cassidy's post for more!), so I felt comfortable with accessorizing with it. More than one person commented on the fact that it looked like a completely different gown. Mission accomplished!<br />
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On the myth of perfectionism: last year, <a href="http://wearinghistoryblog.com/2015/05/social-media-and-the-myth-of-perfection/">this post by Wearing History</a> made quite a few waves in the blog circle, and for a good reason. We all focus so much on perfection, when even <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.ca/2014/03/on-perfectionism.html">historical sources show, sometimes,</a> that things were not made "perfectly". I do admire those who strive for "perfection", though the term is, to me, a moving target, and different to each person. What is perfect to us now may not be so later in our journey, and we should be forgiving of ourselves at our current stage. So many times, when I am reading, the author will say something about their creation that I would not have noticed at all had they not said something. It is so true that we are our own worst critics, being so intimately familiar with our creations. But sometimes, even other creators who know you and your work do not pick up on those things that we perceive as flaws. <br />
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With that in mind, when I posted the picture of my gown and <i>Ceinture à la Victime</i> ribbon on Facebook, I did not comment on what I thought was wrong with everything in the picture. I have a lock of hair across my forehead that got put back later and was not photographed. I probably had threads hanging out of my ribbon because the narrow hem foot and I do not get along, and Jenny started being cranky partway through the stitching. My shift sleeve is sticking out under the gown sleeve, which I only noticed in the photograph! I'd also lost the ribbon for lacing my stays closed, and replaced it with a dark pink one, which is totally visible beneath the sheerness of the dress, and also only noticed that when I was uploading this photo. Oops.<br />
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As for not finishing the other gown, early in October my lower back seized up on me, requiring numerous visits to my health providers to help put it back to rights. As I do most of my sewing on the living room floor, cutting out the skirts of my gown was not an option. It happened approximately 2 weeks before both of these photos were taken, and I'm happy to say that after much work my back is better. I'm still not 100%, but at least I don't feel like a sneeze will set it off again :)Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-32124387302717357852016-10-30T10:44:00.000-06:002016-10-30T10:47:44.309-06:00HSM '16: 10: Historical Heroes: Regency Open RobeI had this fabric set aside for a specific project, and when it became time once again for the Regency ball(s) in Edmonton, it was also time to make it! It also happens to coincide perfectly with this month's HSM theme. Huzzah!<br />
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I've been wanting an open robe for awhile, after seeing some lovely versions around the internet and in person. My partner-in-crime Nicole made a beautiful one out of embroidered sari fabric last year:<br />
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And it's been on the to-do list ever since. I didn't have a pattern in mind at first, but as I spent more time working with patterns and drafting with them, I decided to make the open robe in <i>Patterns of Fashion 1</i>. <br />
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POF1 was one of the first historical costume sources I ever saw, so you could say that Janet Arnold is a historical hero :3 I still plan to make the gown that I first fell in love with. Some more of my historical heroes are the creators who stitch everything by hand, so aside from a few seams, this was constructed that way.<br />
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At the beginning of October, I started planning. I would use Laughing Moon 126 as the base of my robe. The pattern in POF was pretty close to my measurements, which made it easy to work with. I left the back alone, narrowed the straps a little, and modified the front to have a lower profile and more curved shape. Then I laid out my fabric and my pattern pieces and did some measuring, took a deep breath and started to cut. I had 4 metres of fabric, JUST enough to get the robe and sleeves cut out. For the sleeve, I used the sleeve from the swallowtail jacket in <i>Costume Close-up</i>, with some modifications. More on those later.<br />
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I didn't lay out my pattern quite right. The back side seams were off, so that made my pleats off :( But I had NO room for modifications, so I made it work. The lining was made from linen. I constructed all the long seams by machine, but most of the robe was stitched by hand. I polled my Facebook for options to make the front out of a different fabric. I had thought gold or green, to pick up in the boteh designs, but one lovely person suggested peacock blue or teal, and I just happened to have a scrap of teal JUST big enough. I wasn't sure on it at first, but forged ahead. Now I think it's the perfect accent. <br />
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It took a long time to get everything stitched down. By which I mean, it took half a season of Jessica Jones + a couple of movies. The pleats were draped on the mannequin and adjusted a million times. Sleeves had to be stitched in by hand because of the pleats. I didn't have closures done before the ball, so it was pinned closed, and I marked the overlap at the end of the night to add those later. <br />
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SO POKEY.</div><br />
I had to put the sleeves in before I could totally finish the pleats over the shoulder. I only had enough fabric left to make them 3/4 length, and it was about this time that I noticed that the print was directional. So half of my robe is upside down! Oh well. Then the modifications I made to the pattern made it fit the armhole perfectly, buuuut it was too tight on the arm. It was hard to get the robe to sit right when the sleeves wouldn't rotate around my arm easily, but of course I discovered this after I'd already put them in. There's a 2" strip with a pointed end fitted in at the seam. I don't know if I like the shape (the front seam especially could use some tailoring), but as it was approximately 4 hours before the ball when I finished this, I chose not to worry about it. When I was at the ball, I didn't give it a single thought. I could move my arms, which was fantastic for playing cards. <br />
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At the end of the night, my lovely friends took some pictures (and I took some pictures of them). This was when I noticed that the front piece has a beautiful shape. I think I might take this pattern and use it for another dream gown...<br />
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Photo from University of Vermont.</div><br />
<b>The Challenge:</b> <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2016/09/the-historical-sew-monthly-challenge-10-heroes/">#10 Heroes</a><br />
<b>Who your hero is and how the costume applies to them:</b> Janet Arnold should be obvious! Also dedicated to long-time costumers who sew things by hand, share their processes, and have been inspiring me for far longer than they may know :) (in particular <a href="http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/green_gold.html">Katherine C-G</a> and <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/2011/11/1790s-round-gown-and-open-robe.html">Jen Thompson</a>. Links go to the gowns that inspire me!)<br />
<b>Fabric:</b> cotton, linen, polyester<br />
<b>Pattern:</b> Patterns of Fashion 1, Laughing Moon #126<br />
<b>Year:</b> 1795ish<br />
<b>Notions:</b> thread<br />
<b>How historically accurate is it?:</b> Reasonably! The long back seam, lining, and side-back seams were done by machine, everything else stitched by hand. Poly sure wasn't period, and printed cotton would be a stretch for an evening robe, I think, but it looks fabulous!<br />
<b>Hours to complete:</b> a season of Jessica Jones and 2 movies<br />
<b>First worn:</b> October 22<br />
<b>Total cost:</b> Free-to-me! For new materials at non-sale prices I would expect to pay $60-$80 for a cotton robe, and upwards of $120-$140 for a silk one.Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-7884965866796062282016-10-20T21:39:00.000-06:002016-10-20T21:39:14.812-06:00Houndstooth Miramar by Scroop Patterns!Hello friends! I hope you have been well! Summer slipped me by for yet another year, and here we are in OCTOBER already. It's even snowed twice! I'm also preparing for my yearly foray into novel writing, so things will become quiet again, but after that, I have big plans for organizing and using my fabric stash.<br />
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Just a short time ago, Leimomi, aka The Dreamstress, put out a call for pattern testers while I was at work. I was SO excited, it was really hard to wait until I got home to submit my application! I've seen a few bloggers put out similar calls, and just never got around to applying even though I really wanted to, so this time, I made sure to apply! And lucky me, I was also selected to test the Miramar top/tunic/dress pattern :D<br />
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Miramar (<a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2016/10/the-scroop-miramar-dress-top-tunic/">seen here on Leimomi's blog</a>) is a knit top with either short or 3/4-length sleeves and a drapey neck, aimed for sewists without a lot of experience sewing knits. I've been sewing for 22 years now, and one of my first projects was a t-shirt, but oh boy, let me tell you how much I hate sewing knits... I can probably count them all on both hands. My biggest take-aways from those few projects was ball-point needles, let the machine do the work, and use the serger if it's available. I've avoided knits whenever possible. But I also want to sew more things for myself for my everyday life, and let's face it, modern wardrobes are filled with knits. So, I was really excited to have the perfect chance to experiment with sewing knits! And let me tell you right now -- this pattern is awesome, and I LOVE the tunic I made.<br />
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I picked up my fabric for a steal. It was already on sale, and I got it for half-price because the piece I took was pre-cut and the cutter marked it as a remnant. Score! I wanted to use a nice geometric fabric with a fun border, but because the sleeves are cut in one piece with the body, I thought the linear print would be a: too hard to match (read: I didn't want to take the time for it) and b: would bug me if I DIDN'T take the time to match it. (I might go back and buy it anyway, especially after seeing a similar print on Leimomi's blog; it was a great print.) Stripes were SUPER IN last season, I guess, because there were tons in the sale section! I settled on this great black and white houndstooth-and-crosshatched print that stretched VERY well. <br />
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Full disclosure: I got a test copy of this pattern to try out. I printed it at work on my fancy professional copier/printer (that was having feed issues) and taped it together there. I have access to a guillotine paper cutter so I did use it, but in the future I won't bother, as my lines didn't print 100% square and I had to trim a lot of them again with scissors, and sometimes the guillotine cut too far into the pattern area. Then I traced my selected size out onto tracing paper (the tunic length on the front was missing from my copy, but this has been corrected!), laid out my fabric and got sewing!<br />
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The total time it took for me to put this together was about an hour to prepare the pattern, and 3.5 hours to trace, cut and assemble it. For the most part, I used the serger. It fought me a lot, rolling the top layer instead of cutting it, but since that gets contained by the looping threads, it didn't bother me enough to unpick it. I used my sewing machine for the back neck seam, the front fold-over, and the hems. Then I nanced around the house for a few minutes, pleased with my work, and the pattern for making it so simple! I wore it to work the next day with leggings. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAPLhCYMyNV9sGb92tFgUwOJ9lshzToHMuWQdbSXj-gbeNeYR3hKKjdfeHiEc91AlJ4PYTfPktRDaAaqqVCgh61TemjrE8MDTZHu1uDlaXemG29y9Zzr5qU2dGmYbEewkIu8oemAoxnA/s1600/20161006_170242-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJAPLhCYMyNV9sGb92tFgUwOJ9lshzToHMuWQdbSXj-gbeNeYR3hKKjdfeHiEc91AlJ4PYTfPktRDaAaqqVCgh61TemjrE8MDTZHu1uDlaXemG29y9Zzr5qU2dGmYbEewkIu8oemAoxnA/s320/20161006_170242-1.jpg" width="210" height="320" /></a><br />
Good coverage for leggings :)</div><br />
"I like that top; I like the length" was the first comment I received on it. Why thank you! Then, because I'd posted about my project on Facebook (only to tell people that they would get to see my awesome new project if they saw me in person, no pictures for now!), one of my coworkers stopped by to see it, and then a few more did. I'm really proud of it! It's really comfy, and the print is right up my alley. Now that the pattern has been released, I posted a picture (above) to show friends who didn't get to see it in person, to great positive feedback. I really love it! It's definitely going to be in regular rotation for the rest of the year. Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-27819498690464525952016-08-14T20:56:00.000-06:002016-08-14T20:56:59.142-06:00HSM '16: #2 Tucks and Pleating: Market HatAt the end of January, I got an opportunity to volunteer for a local Regency event, to which I enthusiastically agreed shortly into February. I immediately started planning my gown, wanting to both wear my new stays, and also not wear last year's gown for the 4th time in a row. Not the least because last year's gown has a lower back, and my stays would be very visible over the neckline. Oops?<br />
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I wondered how I could possibly fit my gown and/or accessories into the challenge theme. It only occurred to me late in the month that the pleating required to fit the skirt width into the center back would absolutely qualify, because up until then, I had already started another item that was "done enough" to also work. And, I think, be more suitable, since the challenge info states "<a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2016/01/the-hsm-2016-challenge-2-tucks-pleats/">make a garment that features tucks and pleating for the shape or decoration</a>", and this item is most definitely shaped by the pleats.<br />
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Introducing: <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/235598012/18th-century-bonnet-epattern-instant">The Market Hat</a>!<br />
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You've likely seen some version of this hat around the internet before. I first saw it way back in summer 2013, <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.ca/2013/08/2013-costume-college-pt-2-festive.html">in photos of the Curtain-Along meet-up at Costume College that year</a>. Oh, what a lovely hat Loren wore! Then, in 2014, I realized I needed a similar hat in order to recreate an <a href="http://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2014/06/hsf-10-11-art-and-politics-of-fashion.html">art piece for the Art Challenge</a> (which I still have yet to complete). Where could I find a pattern for such an enchanting object?<br />
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At the time there wasn't many. I scoured the internet and came up with a few ideas -- <a href="http://www.kannikskorner.com/patwomen2.htm#KK-6603">Kannik's Korner has a similar item</a>, that I could probably use to suit my needs, and <a href="http://atthesignofthegoldenscissors.com/products/1770s-bonnet-pattern">The Sign of the Golden Scissors</a>. But, both of them seemed awfully expensive at the time, especially since I couldn't find shipping rates. I thought I might get around to developing my own pattern, if I ever decided on what I was actually looking at. I had a hard time imagining the 3D object laid out like a 2D pattern, so I put off thinking about it for a long, long time.<br />
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I did not get around to drafting one. My chosen pattern was not any less expensive, but several factors made it the best option. Maggie of <a href="http://undressinghistorical.blogspot.ca/">Undressing the Historical Lady</a> put out a pattern in between these two in cost, and unlike the others, was a print-at-home pattern, so at least I wouldn't have to pay shipping! That pushed into the "best option" category, in fact, and I bought it last summer when the exchange rate was sliiiiightly more reasonable than it is now. <br />
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I tried to look at options for the brim board at Michael's, but all I could find was a humongous sheet of material that I didn't feel comfortable purchasing, even if I used a coupon. It was 24" x 36" and I only needed a fraction of that. I used a found-item from work that would otherwise have been recycled, sheets of super thin cardboard that came on top of a stack of loose paper to protect it. But since they were only 8.5" x 11", I had to use several sheets (three, in fact) to get a piece wide enough and stable enough to go into the brim. And even though I followed the directions for the brim, pressing in my seam allowances and stitching by hand, my brim board was just too big to fit into it. I had to trim and trim and trim until I could stitch up the seam allowance for the caul to attach to. (I take full responsibility for this issue. The pattern pieces fit just fine together, and I think my board ended up being thicker than the recommended material which took away from the fabric too much.)<br />
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The caul's shape, as directed in the pattern, is achieved entirely by pleating. One could theoretically play with the pleats, how many and how deep, to achieve a different look. I have 9 pleats on either side of a central box pleat. And then I immediately had to run to the mirror to try it on!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhar63-CZJxLTj00bjD6kgY1q-dv4WHMSmY-V0K5ZA0ahMOjG0UMnD1b1lumWG09AI6QTi0QFLbO1H0UmJZRvJ-PWLGKdsKZCax6UbBaHPI82W3b-u_Brsvhv1aEJxN0B6qrF0M3kWti80/s1600/markethatmirror.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhar63-CZJxLTj00bjD6kgY1q-dv4WHMSmY-V0K5ZA0ahMOjG0UMnD1b1lumWG09AI6QTi0QFLbO1H0UmJZRvJ-PWLGKdsKZCax6UbBaHPI82W3b-u_Brsvhv1aEJxN0B6qrF0M3kWti80/s320/markethatmirror.jpg" width="320" height="225" /></a></div><br />
It's been languishing ever since, waiting for the final two steps (finishing the caul/brim seam and then decorating), but I would not feel bad about wearing it should the need arise at this exact moment. I used some of the leftover fabric, actually in a separate cut, for one of my <a href="http://adventuresinbiastape.blogspot.ca/2016/04/regency-midwinter-ball-2016.html">accessories for my ball outfit</a>, but saved the rest from this cut to make a "ribbon" to decorate with. Partly complicated by the fact that I could not find my pinking shears for most of the month. They had decided, for the last 6 months, to make their home with my partner-in-crime.<br />
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And since this post is ONLY 6 months late (HA!), it still hasn't been finished... and I've misplaced the spare fabric... but I could still totally wear it right this moment! <br />
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<b>The Challenge:</b> <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2016/01/the-hsm-2016-challenge-2-tucks-pleats/">#2 Tucks & Pleats</a><br />
<b>Fabric:</b> 100% polyester<br />
<b>Pattern:</b> <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/235598012/18th-century-bonnet-epattern-instant">18th Century Bonnet/Market Hat</a><br />
<b>Year:</b> late 18th century<br />
<b>Notions:</b> thread, ribbon, bias tape, thin cardboard<br />
<b>How historically accurate is it?:</b> Looks great! I don't know if this type of cardboard was being produced in-era, and we won't even touch polyester.<br />
<b>Hours to complete:</b> 10 or so.<br />
<b>First worn:</b> Not yet<br />
<b>Total cost:</b> $27 CDN for the pattern, materials were all free-to-me! I would expect to spend roughly $30-$40 CDN (without the pattern) on this if I were to buy all new materials. Silk is difficult to get in Edmonton, and with the exchange rate being so poor right now, even "cheap" silk is expensive to ship in. Americans might be able to do this project for under $20 US.<br />
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Want to admire more market hats? Maggie's own market hat, which you can see on the Etsy listing, is also <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.ca/2014/03/more-highlights-from-williamsburg-and.html">visible here at American Duchess</a>; Lauren of <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.ca/2015/06/the-versatile-18th-century-market-hat.html">American Duchess has a lovely one</a> (this is more of a research page, so be sure to click through to entries at the beginning of July to see the finished item in action!); <a href="http://">The Couture Courtesan</a> has a beautiful piece made from her own pattern; Peryn's <a href="http://isabelnorthwode.blogspot.ca/2015/08/a-c-1780-chintz-italian-gown-or-robe.html">gorgeous hat (and dress)</a>; and so did <a href="http://www.festiveattyre.com/2015/11/grandma-wolf-and-little-red.html">Festive Attyre</a> with Maggie's pattern. Got more? I'd love to see them! Even after looking at them all summer, I still think this hat is adorable!Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3766234582129668857.post-21906502491779091712016-08-04T23:14:00.000-06:002016-08-04T23:14:42.777-06:00Adventures in Cosplay: Jareth the Goblin KingShortly after David Bowie's death earlier this year (I won't go into how much his death affected me -- I "met" him at all the wrong moments in my life, but I still loved him), my partner-in-crime, Nicole, asked if I would be her Goblin King at our spring convention. She thought that the time was right to make her Sarah ballgown costume (something that had been on her to-do list for the past 10 years), and course she needed a Goblin King.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi81-TpWyEbMtwVwaGJDLTERZE9DSGaJWxrvzGtILg0vqlkjQnnI46QtUpoNuZbLSBpOb-YTnaqRAsNwez7dm8T9l9q0zSekqXGL0R1-RFDKBQlYXu7ZqV970mO5U5lQdvbTASJXWPfrMI/s1600/13123122_10153418316577587_266889214872102980_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi81-TpWyEbMtwVwaGJDLTERZE9DSGaJWxrvzGtILg0vqlkjQnnI46QtUpoNuZbLSBpOb-YTnaqRAsNwez7dm8T9l9q0zSekqXGL0R1-RFDKBQlYXu7ZqV970mO5U5lQdvbTASJXWPfrMI/s320/13123122_10153418316577587_266889214872102980_o.jpg" width="249" height="320" /></a><br />
Photo by T.T.</div><br />
Of course I said yes ;)<br />
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We purchased 5 metres of teal taffeta and a metric butt-ton of jewels in blue, black and silver (this is a very technical measurement), and got to work. I created the shirt, jabot, vest, and coat, and wore a pair of black pants and boots I already owned. Nicole sourced the wig, and spent around 40 hours (with some assistance from other friends) gluing jewels to the coat.<br />
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It was quite an experience. The sewing itself was very easy, if time-intensive. While I have decided that writing and posting about my mental health is not the ideal way to deal with it, I do want to touch on it briefly. I started experiencing full-blown anxiety attacks in the middle of this sewing, and I was finally self-aware enough to recognize them as such. It's been quite a roller coaster ride, learning to manage them, and I have a long way to go yet. They seriously coloured the creation and wearing of this costume.<br />
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I started with <a href="https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6818">McCalls 6818</a>, a <i>Once Upon a Time</i> costume pattern, modifying the skirt, collar, sleeves and cuffs. The shirt was made with <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-pattern-4923-mens-costumes/4923.html">Simplicity 4923</a>, with a lot of width taken out of the body and sleeves. The jabot is a rectangle with circular ruffles sewn to it, and a fun necklace part on top. The vest is a pillow case with some nice floral mesh sewn on top. The final touch was to sew a string of blue LED lights to the edges, to go with Nicole's lighted skirt. I ended up sewing them on the night before I wore it. Not recommended. One of my ongoing costume goals is "no last minute sewing", but I really didn't make it for this con. Next time! I will strive to do better.<br />
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The day we wore them, I used a <a href="https://youtu.be/c-cfAbrG-Ho">YouTube tutorial</a> to create my makeup, and eventually we set out to the con. We had entered the costume contest in the master category. While I usually don't enter contests, Nicole wanted to, so I figured I could do it this time, and she has won more than enough contests to place her squarely in the master category. That was its own set of fun (part of the anxiety manifests as stage fright...) but we (ok, myself, mostly) got through it and then we had to wait for the results.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEUYiz2ztG_00NNQ_JJa5KqjSx2-b7nkkCj9ZCnwRQFq4w-_RRE1ehxGPL9JYLTm9gvxW6wYCmcl5g8B7sApKS3xgPNZAXp_euAOee8bUpzuAZnObCURyAgxet9bs56dxjbNFJRKsENtc/s1600/13116036_10153418315972587_462238524901857465_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEUYiz2ztG_00NNQ_JJa5KqjSx2-b7nkkCj9ZCnwRQFq4w-_RRE1ehxGPL9JYLTm9gvxW6wYCmcl5g8B7sApKS3xgPNZAXp_euAOee8bUpzuAZnObCURyAgxet9bs56dxjbNFJRKsENtc/s320/13116036_10153418315972587_462238524901857465_o.jpg" width="320" height="269" /></a><br />
Photo by T.T.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwBWtKHa6XqJl2NT3MpVhyphenhyphenOWYq0RTeGMN5tGisGkLqkGKaBm1Tuxg9d-sqq-d57C-ti1aSRj_u1KEtWSGxUL_ay_m3APbJwBg6zbjQbmiHo3RyRIHJGG_7YH95S_imGD88VgrNrb8NK64/s1600/13116327_10153418315822587_8617689532668529723_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwBWtKHa6XqJl2NT3MpVhyphenhyphenOWYq0RTeGMN5tGisGkLqkGKaBm1Tuxg9d-sqq-d57C-ti1aSRj_u1KEtWSGxUL_ay_m3APbJwBg6zbjQbmiHo3RyRIHJGG_7YH95S_imGD88VgrNrb8NK64/s320/13116327_10153418315822587_8617689532668529723_o.jpg" width="259" height="320" /></a><br />
Photo by T.T.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgriZNDEKQMGv3k6uejcz6KXxwucM1u7fdobYq6-i5ndeeKlHQzoYEp15qDodg5TpYkq7kCok9PGENSW95mri17P8WQ6l39-pnWUv3x2pgjxUVM_4AqBJ2oIgHYvdg9iMrrqWUQl-cE2xE/s1600/13119816_10153418315912587_1231550138717779259_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgriZNDEKQMGv3k6uejcz6KXxwucM1u7fdobYq6-i5ndeeKlHQzoYEp15qDodg5TpYkq7kCok9PGENSW95mri17P8WQ6l39-pnWUv3x2pgjxUVM_4AqBJ2oIgHYvdg9iMrrqWUQl-cE2xE/s320/13119816_10153418315912587_1231550138717779259_o.jpg" width="187" height="320" /></a><br />
Photo by T.T.</div><br />
I was a little surprised that we won best in class: craftsmanship, and then even more surprised when we won best in show as well. It really made all of the stress and headaches of the construction and sewing at 11pm and removing part of my eyebrows worth it.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdlJosSIFbdzZEbqqpIsHWPAIjDwHzFDUcfUSZWqxQbV-L9VEoQnV1dsHG6levzo4Zt2F7sR8A3Bt0cWcSK0FEUgsa7I9RNZd1LIpltC5qi0OEJy0urmYqyrOgrNG25FWJgPGGh6pGS1Y/s1600/13151675_10154152341564911_7777609628475292753_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdlJosSIFbdzZEbqqpIsHWPAIjDwHzFDUcfUSZWqxQbV-L9VEoQnV1dsHG6levzo4Zt2F7sR8A3Bt0cWcSK0FEUgsa7I9RNZd1LIpltC5qi0OEJy0urmYqyrOgrNG25FWJgPGGh6pGS1Y/s320/13151675_10154152341564911_7777609628475292753_n.jpg" width="320" height="222" /></a><br />
Accepting our Best in Show award. Photo by <a href="http://www.calgaryexpo.com">Calgary Expo</a> crew.</div><br />
We even had someone make fan art of our pictures! Some of the nicest things people said to me over the weekend was how much I looked like David Bowie, and I didn't quite realize it myself until I saw this manipulation of the movie poster and myself side by side. Super thanks to that YouTube tutorial!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH7N6ysD9jJ8Q-IVA5x69uurHmMcSTJhQSM5xv_KvKCNfPsrE8VdGiUCnhOaOR4zupOWV536rtG7EOmqbcD-2EN8pcg839LLo1X6YlxIgz1sF_fd68iBHifAFZ7xpazwVXkkPY3hGEx0M/s1600/13435320_10153497402932587_4036899259324146790_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH7N6ysD9jJ8Q-IVA5x69uurHmMcSTJhQSM5xv_KvKCNfPsrE8VdGiUCnhOaOR4zupOWV536rtG7EOmqbcD-2EN8pcg839LLo1X6YlxIgz1sF_fd68iBHifAFZ7xpazwVXkkPY3hGEx0M/s320/13435320_10153497402932587_4036899259324146790_n.jpg" width="320" height="269" /></a><br />
I'm so sorry, I don't know your name, awesome person! Please let me know so I can credit you!</div><br />
Honestly, the experience was not my ideal situation, but it was so amazing at the same time. We waited a long time before going on stage, with others in our category, and everyone was so nice and so supportive of each other. After the contest was over, as we left, we got delayed over and over as people stopped us to congratulate us. People reached out to me on Facebook with the same, both people I know and total strangers, and I felt really connected to the cosplay community. It was really wonderful, and I am glad I took part in it (shhh don't tell Nicole. She'll make remove part of my eyebrows again! ;)) Thank you, everyone, so much, for creating a welcoming and warm community where even anxiety-ridden oldies like me feel at home. Crystalhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00962746282460467913noreply@blogger.com6